Cragganmore is one of the distilleries that I have least experience with. I have enjoyed the 12yo at some level, but then I discovered the 14yo Oban, somewhat similar yet much better in my book. And the Cragganmore fell off my radar. I think that all in all I have only tried three different expressions, time to add to the tally.
Cragganmore 14yo 1969-1983 40% CC G&M
One with the old map label from Gordon & Macphail, I haven't had too many from this series since my initial whisky days a couple years back. Thankfully G&M have upped the %abv in the CC-series lately, as I often found these 40%-whiskies to be a tad dull. But there were occasional gold to be found in amongst them as well. It smells sherried, mustard, phenol and feta cheese. A strange mix, Cragganmore distillery's produce is far from light. The taste is Peppery, again mustard, bitter, phenolic again. It's not very pleasant, but an interesting challenge for the palates, hard to tell the nuances apart. Maybe water will make a difference? Water makes it a bit sweeter, orange peal and bitter licorice. I think I'd pass on this one if opportunity would ever strike again. Make sure you give this enough time.
I think some would like this hardcore bitter style, not me: 3.5
Cragganmore 20yo 1991-2011 54.2% Master of Malt
I think this is my first Cragganmore bottled at cask strength ever. I'm glad there are so many distilleries and expressions around that there always will be something new to try. pale color, straw or white wine. Smells much smokier than the 1969'er, this is an ashtray, more Islay style than I've found in any Highlander yet. Time mellows it a bit and gives way to oak, vanilla, sunseeds and hay. Black pepper and cardamoms as well, reminds me of sweet home bakery. The taste is huge on vanilla and smoke, easy yet very powerful, this is a classy example on how fresh a twenty-year old can be, yet still benefitting massively from an active cask. Potent cask and spirit is all I can say.
A speysider that's perfectly smoky/peaty, I thought I'd never find it: 7
Cragganmore 15yo 1976-1991 55.8% G&M Cask cask#3583-3584
Second one from Gordon & Macphail in this tasting, from a series that I usually enjoy much more. Much darker color than the 20yo, smells nicely rounded, like some older oloroso matured Glenfarclas'es I've tried. Not much peat or smokiness to trace here, but instead a rich honey and cinnamon dominated smell. The taste is phenolic, waxy, white pepper, cinnamon and honey. The phenol is a bit too much so I'll add some water. Now it turns more sweet and a bit smoky, this isn't far from earlier, more sherried batches of Talisker 18yo, which was some of my all time favorite OB's. When given time it develops even more smokiness, this is fantastic stuff.
Powerful stuff, perfectly balanced, all served with a smoky punch: 8.5
Cragganmore 12yo 1982-1994 60.1% Cadenhead's
Lately I have tried many many splendid examples from the series of green bottles, Authentic Collection, Dumpies and so on from Cadenhead's. Most of their whiskies of younger date I find a bit harder to enjoy for some reason, maybe the casks aren't at the same level anymore? This should be right up my alley anyway. Color is pale, white wine, about the same as the Master of Malt-version. The nose suggests this comes from a fresh bourbon cask, loads and loads of vanilla and some pepperiness. Give this time and the smokiness that I found in the aforementioned Master of Malt-bottling comes in with a bang and suddenly it's all smoke and vanilla, just way more this time. The taste is stewed onions, curry, yellow bell peppers and thyme. A special one. It's all very good, just not that interesting, the flavors seems to withdraw just after a second or two on the palate, maybe water will help open it up. Remember, 60+% doesn't mean it always needs water, it's just that it usually does. Now it reaches a more peppery and fruity style, sun roasted tomatoes, chili and mango, very pleasant. Water lifts it a bit, but it neer becomes an exciting malt. It's just a bit too bland even at 60.1%. Smooth but lacks a distinctive palate.
If tasted blind this could be anything, the nose was spectacular though: 6.5
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