Benriach is an up and coming Distillery what single malt is concerned, seeing more and more older stock released as single cask bottlings these days. Remember, it was mothballed until just 8 years back. Time to taste. And since its one of the few independent distilleries in Scotland these days, I hope it does well.
Benriach 12yo 1986-1998 43% Signatory Vintage cask#4804,4805 btl.832/1250
Benriach bottled the year before they mothballed it. Perhaps this one can shed some light on why this distillery was shut down. But of course, I do not believe that bad whisky is always the reason for a distillery closing, we have Glenugie, Glenlochy, Port Ellen and some others to prove that. The color is light golden. Hay I suppose. It smells spirity and peppery at first, chlorine, not much else. Remember this is not peated like some of the current 12yo Benriachs. The taste is sweet and peppery, marzipan, black pepper, honey, licorice, rosé wine, leather, apple juice, cloves, lemon juice, much bigger and far more complex than what one might suggest from a 12yo at 43%abv. The finish is sweet, peppery and perfumy.
One of the best low strength 12yo's so far: 7.5
Benriach 33yo 1977-2011 45.7% OB Asta Morris cask#9119
From a refill bourbon hogshead. The color is golden, a nice tan. At this strength I wonder if it has gone all oaky? Time to find out. It smells toast, oaky, wheat, grilled batter, greasy, reminds me of an old fish'n'chips stand. The taste is caramel, nuts, chili, ginger, thyme, leeks, spring onions. Very light in contrast to the 12yo. Perhaps it needs a drop of water to open up? With water the experience changes a bit, more peppery, pickles, ginger, herbal, raw onions, a bit less appreciated by me, but if you like your whisky to be characterized by its commodities more than the 33yo on oak, I guess this one is a good choice.
It smells rustic modesty, but the palate is a bit simple: 5
Benriach 32yo 1979-2012 47.3% Asta Morris cask#8507
Another one from a refill bourbon hogshead. Btw, Asta Morris is an Belgian independent bottler, which has been around not for long. Another deep golden color. This one smells strong, pungent, apple compote, lemon juice, potato stark, red onions, lot of apple so far in this one. The taste is burnt, sweet apples, juicy, herbs, stewed onions and sour dough. Yeasty. It has a clear edge over the 1977. This is just much more expressive. I'd say this has a yeasty, wheaty Fettercairn style. Light and beautiful.
Wine territory, extremely drinkable without being too light: 7
Benriach 19yo 1991-2010 54.9% OB cask#4389
This one comes from a first fill bourbon hogshead, or "virgin oak" as they name it on the label. Orange amber hue. It smells peaty, port wine, apple vinegar, stewed onions, baking powder, apples and lemon. The taste is thick and creamy, peat again, some burnt oaky notes, peppery, thick custard, one of the best Benriaches I've had so far. The only thing letting me down a bit is the finish. Its just a bit too light and easy, needs something more than peppery notes and none.
The palate is beyond perfect: 8
Benriach 16yo 1994-2011 55.1% Premium Spirits Belgium cask#2630
I hope this one shows the best is yet to come from Benriach as this is the youngest distillate in this tasting. From a bourbon barrel. Light golden color. It smells peppery, vanilla, bacon, red wine vinegar, stewed onions, leather, very good but far from the 1991 so far. The taste is kinda bitter with lots of caramel, reminds me of some licorice schnaps, vanilla, very concentrated. This is just a bit harsh and unpolished for me. The finish is all on cinnamon and caramel, which leaves me very much impressed by a young Benriach.
Light, vanilla, caramel, all sweets, after meal dram: 7
Next tasting: Macduff Distillery
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