Historic Distilleries: Glenury Royal

Glenury Royal was founded in 1825, just one year after Glenlivet became the first licensed distillery in Scotland. Set south of Aberdeen neighboring distilleries like Nort Port Brechin, Glen Esk and Lochside have all gone down since. Only Fettercairn and Glen Garioch in near proximity have stayed alive. The distillery changed hands a number of times, but run pretty fluently in old fashion, except for wartime, until it was modernized back in 1965/66. Number of stills were doubled and own maltings shut down three years later. The distillery was mothballed in 1985 and any hope for the distillery to produce again was shattered in 1992 when the site was sold for property development. There haven't been many bottlings since the closure, but some have been released making Glenury Royal a sought after malt. Time to try some of them to see if its worth hunting down more. But beware, the prices might seem outrageous. All whiskies in this session was distilled pre 1980.



Glenury Royal 37yo 1973-2010 42.1% The Whisky Agency

This oldie comes from an ex-bourbon hogshead, I'll have another one from TWA after this one too. Low strength, but at this age one might expect that. The color is orange amber. It smells of peppery, oaky, cedar wood, bonfire, rubber, banana, butter, open up on honey and heather after a while. This one needs time. The taste is honey, dark coffee, malt syrup, banana liqueur, caramel, vanilla, very sweet and almost creamy, but then again a bit boring. Time to add some water. The taste is now more peppery, oaky, cedar wood, pistachio, peanut butter, again a bit boring. I'd say I prefer it neat, just a bit more punch then. One that's been lying around in a cask for just a bit too long if you ask me. The cask does most of the talking here, not much distillery character, but then again, I wouldn't be too familiar with that character anyway as I haven't tried too many Glenurys so far.

Mellow, sweet and oaky: 7


Glenury Royal 37yo 1973-2011 43% The Whisky Agency

Another one from an ex-bourbon hogshead, about same age and strength, and remember, even though most whiskies bottled at 43% are watered down to that strength, TWA always bottles at CS. The color is amber orange. It smells of honey, cigar smoke, orange liqueur, Campari bitter, Cointreau, ginger, plum wine, minty sweetness, green apples, honey, earl grey tea. The taste is bittersweet, dry leather, balsamic vinegar, cinnamon, dried paprika, sage. Peppery, dry licorice, hard boiled yolks, dark chocolate, dark coffee. The finish is bitter, cactus, fennel, mustard, raw onions.

Seems much younger than 37, and quite MOTR whisky in my opinion: 5


Glenury Royal 14yo 1978-1993 43% The Master of Malt cask#9776

If I'm correct I believe this whisky have been poured from full bottles into miniatures for Master of Malt, but by whom I'm not sure. I'll have the cask#9770 from same bottler at CS later in this session, so I could be wrong. The color is pale golden, borderline white wine. It smells of peppery, marzipan, mint liqueur, thyme, ground parsley, grassy, really a fresh and minty nose on this highlander, quite unexpected. Bitter one for sure. The taste is sweet, peppery, wool, like chewing cotton actually, rubbery, quite bizarre now. I don't however, believe water is the solution here. I'll rather let minutes go by. Now after heavy breathing it turns even more bitter, tonic water, grape soda, grapefruit juice. Now water? Yes! With added water it turns less awkward, now its just light, peppery and sweet, just like any other motr highlander. The nose promised great stuff, the palate failed to deliver on every scale.

Not a good representative for this lost distillery, I think: 2.5


Glenury Royal 23yo 1966-1990 53.8% Cadenhead's

A real oldie distilled back in 1966, surely not many of these still around from Glenury Royal. Some evaporation in this one, as one often find in these old miniatures from Cadenhead's. The color is Golden honey brown. It smells peppery, dry leather, buttery, chalk, thyme, licorice, cinnamon, tea shop, certainly from some old sherry oak, one that I could nose for hours, superb stuff. The taste is sweet, peppery, orange zest, tannins, dry red wine, pear spirit. Pretty good initially, but the finish is a bit eccentric and too concentrated for my taste. Time to add some water. Water shakes up a lot of cask sediments in this one, superb! Now the taste then gets more sweet, plum syrup, ginger, cranberry juice, blueberries, peppery, a bit harsh, but ending on some peaty and peppery notes which I've found in some older Ben Nevis before.

Great stuff, one of the best old Glenury I've tried, get one while you can: 8.5


Glenury Royal 23yo 1975-1998 57.2% Signatory Vintage cask#5238 btl.542/620

Though not being mothballed before 1985, there's hard to find Glenury Royal distilled in the early 80's. Most available today was distilled back in the 70's. Where did the 80's vintages all go? I'm sure some are obtainable if you have the time and money. Many of the Signatory bottlings bottled in the mid to late 90's were state of the art bang for your buck bottlings. Lets see how this goes down, literary so to speak. The color is light golden, which goes hazy right away as it hits the glass. It smells peppery, minty, butter, pistachio, peppery, thyme, leather, orange zest, earthy, lime juice, caipirinho, one of the best whiskies I've had nose-wise as it just keeps developing however long you have time to sit with it. The taste is sweet, vanilla, banana, peat, ginger, dried black pepper, licorice, hickory smoke, vinegar, barbecue sauce. This is quite amazing old style whisky, never to be rushed, but carefully enjoyed, then to be rediscovered, behind those peaty and peppery spirity notes, superb malt whisky! From a bourbon cask which really have helped Glenury Royal fulfill its potential here.

The quality of this dram, amazing!: 9


Glenury Royal 15yo 1978-1993 62.3% The Master of Malt cask#9770

One of only 120 miniatures, which to me means theres only been about two full bottles left in the cask, or rebottled to miniatures, whatever was the case. If we knew before then what we knew then, would we bottle these whiskies in 1993? I doubt it. But lets not be hasty, this whisky may not, because it's not been diluted, appear very different than the one from cask#9776. The color is white wine, certainly lighter than the #9776. It smells spirity, vanilla, vodka, clean spirit, but the cask is left without a chance on the nose here. The taste is bitter, licorice, drying, heather, very light, but mostly its spirity and sweet, lots of vanilla. Time to try this spirity lightweighter with water added. Now it becomes sweeter, more dry, peppery, hay, leather, ginger, more like the Glenury Royal character I've now, during this session somehow learned to know and like/love. As said, Glenury Royal is a whisky that needs time, patience and some work to get to terms with. Hard to enjoy? Perhaps, but when you're prepared to enjoy it, it's surely a treat.

This is both vanilla nectarish and dry spirity-ish, a jekyll and hyde whisky: 6.5

A memorial piece where part of the distillery once stood

Glenury Royal in its heydays.

















Next tasting: Rosebank Distillery

Historic distilleries: Glenugie

Glenugie are one of those whiskies that have increased massively in price due to a few good bottlings and the simple fact that there's very little left of it. It was first used as a distillery/brewery back in the 1830's, but rebuilt by Scottish Highland Distillers Co Ltd. in 1875 for malt whisky distillation only. Glenugie is another distillery that seems to have been closed for most of its lifetime, and in the 1960's the distillery, was modernized to increase production capacity, but the distillery was closed just two decades later, in 1983. Sadly this whisky is both too rare and expensive nowadays to be worth sourcing for most people, and I have only one unopened full bottle in my cabinet. In older bottlings of Long John there used to a fair portion of Glenugie, and that sure is a more affordable way to get a taste of something containing Glenugie. But I've sourced these five Glenugies I'm about to try now online, mind you, samples are not cheaper than full bottles if you compare the amount of whisky you get, but for a tasting of one single distillery its sure a great way to get a wider range of bottlings. But back to Glenugie. Situated in the eastern highlands north of Aberdeen I think the surrounding distilleries would be Lochside, Glen Garioch, Fettercairn and some other now closed ones maybe. Part of the site is now derelict and will most likely never be used for distilling purposes again. Other parts have been turned into business sites.



Glenugie 28yo 1966-1994 40% Connoisseurs Choice Gordon & Macphail

We have many things to thank G&M for, and bottling a number of closed distilleries in the early to mid-90's is one of them. If this whisky was released today I have no idea what it'd cost, but I'm sure it'd be in some exclusive range and I'd at least have to sell my car to afford a bottle. The color is amber orange. It smells of creamy notes, coffee liqueurs, almonds, marzipan, buttery, gingerbread, star anise, cloves, superb mouth-watering start. The taste is raw, malty, spirity, even at this age and strength? Yes! I'll better drop in some water straight away. Now it turns sweet, creamy, nutty, malty, still a bit harsh and spirity, but all in all an unbalanced dram that swifts from young and spirity to over-oaked and back all in just one sip.

A strange one, let's hope the next experiences will be more pleasant: 3


Glenugie 27yo 1977-2005 46.8% Celtic Heartlands Jim McEwan

As well as Murray McDavid, Celtic Heartlands also seized to be produced when Bruichladdich was sold last year. Sad things. As you can see there's quite a low abv on some of these Glenugies, that's part due to being matured in Bourbon casks. I don't think I've ever seen a sherry matured Glenugie, but some older bottlings have been finished in sherry casks, and one of those will be up later in this session. The color is golden. It smells of vanilla, oaky, chalk, concrete dust, building sites, drying, peppery, chopped onions, mustard. The taste is sweet, chalky, wheat, rye, sawdust, mushrooms, sour agave and grapefruit. Time to add some water. Now it turns much lighter, vanilla, stewed onions, ginger, vegetable broth. It struggles a bit with the low strength, it just doesn't seem as vibrant as you'd expect a 27yo highlander from bourbon wood to be. But its no off-notes or anything like that here. Pure and simple whisky.

old style highland whisky, a bit like a young Ben Nevis: 4


Glenugie 29yo 1977-2006 49.6% Part des Anges Closed Distilleries cask#360

Quite some 1977 vintages in this session. A good year at Glenugie? The color is golden amber. It smells of musty peppery notes, mustard, green peppers, bullet chili, pickled jalapenos, buttery, chives, coleslaw, acidic, white wine vinegar, pickled vegetables all over the place. The taste is bitter, grassy, bell peppers, bullet chillies, I've not experienced this kinda warm temper in highlander before. Time to add some water. Now it turns sweeter, bourbon notes, vanilla, oranges, thyme, rich heathery, honey, banana chips, a lot better with water. The finish is long, peppery, dry licorice, this is one that'll grow on you with time and water, nice one.

Try this to see Glenugies potential blossom in a glass: 7


Glenugie 33yo 1977-2010 55.48% Chivas Brothers Deoch an Doras

Chivas Brothers started their own IB series called "Deoch an Doras" some years ago, and they are extra keen on delivering as much information as possible about the whisky it seems, having added a second decimal to the abv. number. So now you know more precisely how much alcohol you're consuming(!). But who know how many great casks have gone into blends through the years, lets hope Chivas Brothers sells the best as single malt. The color on this one is bronze. Very dark one. It smells of dark coffee, dark chocolate, cocoa, cinnamon, pineapples, black pepper, gunpowder, rubbery, this must be a sherry casked one, or finished in an extremely active sherry cask. Great start. The taste is sweet, caramel, dark chocolate, peppery, leather, chillies, orange zest, cinnamon, waxy, just a bit rubbery and spirity, so let's add water. Just the tiniest drop of water here. Now it turns even sweeter, more cinnamon, red bell peppers, dried paprika, oranges and well, all of the things I found when it was neat. The finish is peppery, rubbery, glue, longlasting.

Great Glenugie, a complex sherried one: 9


Glenugie 33yo 1977-2011 57.2% Signatory Vintage cask#2

This one was double matured so in reality its not a single cask. I know Signatory put out two casks which were transfereed to sherry oak for period of time prior to bottling and referred to them as cask#1 and #2. This one was finished for 100 months in a sherry cask, which makes for little over 8 years if I'm correct. Also worth mentioning is that the sherry casks were ex oloroso. The color is golden bronze/amber, much lighter than the DaD. It smells of very peppery dry notes, unripe sour berries, sweet tea, fruit gums, vanilla, cinnamon, leather, quite nice, opens up with time. I've now given it 25 minutes of breathing. The taste is sweet, molasses, dark rum, peppery, vanilla, spicy, once again a little too spirity for my liking. Time to add a very small drop of water. Now it turns sweeter, some low strength red wine, pulp, cream oloroso sherry, vanilla, raspberries, strawberries, milk chocolate, tapioca, whipped cream. The finish is peppery, burnt, tannic, not very pleasant, but the finish is more often than not the problem with these double casked whiskies.


Another very nice Glenugie, with big sherry character despite only being finished in sherry oak: 8

Glenugie then

Glenugie now















Next distillery: Glenury Royal Distillery

Historic Distilleries: North Port/Brechin

Brechin, or North Port as its often called, or the other way around, was an old Highland distillery founded under the name Townhead in 1820 and situated close to where Glencadam Distillery would be founded just 5 years later. The distillery changed hands a bunch of times, but had few non-productive periods before it was mothballed back in 1983, a dreadful year for many scottish distilleries. Many of its neighbors, like Glen Esk, Lochside and Glenury Royal were also closed back then and will probably never distill again. Glencadam too were closed for a period, but has since then re-opened. The only distillery in the easter highlands that went untroubled was the Old Fettercairn Distillery. In 1990 most of the equipment was sold and the site was sold to become a supermarket. Bottlings of NPB are getting scarcer and scarcer, and I don't believe, except for a Connoisseur's Choice bottling by G&M back in 2010, that there's been any output of NPB since 2008. I've saved some samples from bottles I once had from this distillery and some miniatures and such, time to explore! And if you ask me, I do not believe there will be much more North Port Brechin in years to come either, so get one before they're all gone!


North Port Brechin 20yo 1970-1990 40% Connoisseurs Choice Gordon & Macphail

The color of this is bright amber, as many others that's been colored by E150 in this series. It smells of soft malty notes, marzipan, linen, liquid soap, very balanced, refreshing. The taste is malty, sweet, orange zest, pears, onions, cedar wood, ashes, oaky, turnips, honey, banana leaves, croutons, there's most certainly some similarities to old Fettercairn in this one. Sweet white wine, fruit syrup, nectarine and floral notes on the finish. Certainly one of those old CC-bottlings that kept up with the added water after maturation.

Fruitbomb: 8.5


North Port Brechin NAS 1982-? 43% Private Cellar, Forbes & Ross

Private Cellar is an IB series that ranks a bit below the Scott's Selection range at F&R. Therefore its always diluted prior to bottling. This sample is from a full bottle that I purchased a couple years ago, at a very affordable price compared to todays bottlings, and I believe its one of the latest North Ports that ever was released up till this date. The color is about the same as the 1970 CC. It smells of sort of dry, papery, banana peel, orange seeds, one could easily criticize this whisky for being too weak and not robust or complex enough, but the total lack of anything not-pleasant is enough to convince me. Really a whisky to sip when getting a massage at the spa, if that's your thing, not mine, I'll rather visit The Den for a game of football. So, let's not get carried away, how is the taste? The taste is all on roast smoke, butter, vanilla, pistachio, wax, almonds, nutty, small hints of peat and kiwi. This is again not the most expressive malt, but to enjoy on its own besides some dark chocolate and strawberries, it's nothing short of perfect.

It have got some of that Springbank lightness, enjoy, enjoy, enjoy: 8.5


North Port Brechin 29yo 1975-2005 57.5% Signatory Vintage cask#2961 btl.132/185

Another sample from a bottle I won, but this I have still got a lot left of. I think my claim that none (very, very little) NPB have been release after 2008 in that case makes this one my oldest so far in this session. I hope this will be something in the veins of the last two. I'm assuming this one comes from a bourbon cask, as nothin is stated on the bottle. The color is dark golden. It smells of peppery notes, burnt toffee, dark chocolate, onions, leather, bitter herbs, sauerkraut, creamy licorice (if that exists), grassy, oregano, complex enough, but how's the palate? The taste is peppery, waxy, bitter, green leaves, very drying tonic water, very peppery indeed, but that's far from its fault. Perhaps it needs some water. Now it turns more bitter and minty, minty licorice, mint drops. On can't blame the palate alone. The thing's that really lacking in this one is the buttery, nutty, fruity sweetness that I found on the palate after the initial shock in the prior ones.

Good whisky, but not more than that: 6


North Port Brechin 20yo 1979-1999 61.2% OB Rare Malts

Diageo have bottled some closed distilleries in the Rare Malts series, but don't be misguided, none of these were bottled when the distilleries were still operating. A rather high strength on this one, but so will the rest in this session be. Remember, nowadays distillers cuts their new-make at lower degrees than what they used before. The color on this one is dark golden. It smells of lead, bitter notes, sea salt, coastal, butter, caramel, peat, smoke, honey, mustard seeds, mustard leaves, superb stuff, this is a whisky that measure with the best. The taste is peppery, pistachio, bitter, dry leaves, grassy, needs some water to improve I believe. Now it turns more sweet, peppercorns, bitter notes, jalapeno. I must reveal this as some of the best from closed distilleries, but its hard to justify it.

A great whisky, but at this age its a bit too late I'm afraid: 6


North Port Brechin 21yo 62% Cadenhead's

No cask reference on this one, but what a strength for a whisky this age. I had a Kilchoman at 4yo at 64% right the other day, and it was indeed great stuff! The color is deep, dark golden. It smells of honey and bitter notes, coastal, salty, butter, even smoke and onions. The taste is smoky, buttery, cinnamon, leather, dark grapes, grape seeds, a superb whisky without a doubt. Going forward it has some leathery and latex notes, its beyond beauty!

Not many whiskies of NPB, but great quality drams: 9.5

North Port, or Brechin, back when operational

The site where NPB formerly stood, 2011

















Next tasting: Glenugie Distillery

Historic Distilleries: 軽井沢 (Karuizawa)

Karuizawa 31yo 1981-2012 55.8% LMDW cask#162

I've had just a small sip of Aberlour before this session, just to prepare my tastebuds for some high strength sherried whisky. Only 3 of 7 below 60%abv. in this session. brown golden color. It comes from a sherry cask. It smells honey, nougat, roasted almonds, spicy cinnamon, malt syrup, peat, thick, reminds me a bit of some Aberlour A'bunadh on the nose, but rounder and more complex. The taste is sweet, peppery, chillies, spicy, peaty, certainly not intended for hot weather. Adding some water. Now it turns even more peppery, bitter, vanilla, green grapes, cinnamon, fresh herbs, lemons. The finish is peaty, peppery, leather.

Great sherried expression: 7.5


Karuizawa 28yo 1983-2012 57.2% OB Noh cask#7576

Noh is a statement used on casks sold by current distillery owner, I don't know the whole story or principal of Noh. The color is dark brown. The nose is sweet cinnamon, orange liqueur, honey, leather, dark coffee, coal, ashes, gunpowder, a real sherry monster. The taste is strong, bitter, cinnamon, phenolic, earthy, rubbery, I guess some sherry-cask enthusiasts will love this, but I'm a bit sensitive to this much rubber. Adding water. Now it turns, sweeter, plums, red wine, strawberries, mild earthy notes, cherries. The finish is peppery and oaky.

A drop of water transforms this lion into a lamb: 8


Karuizawa 27yo 59.1% ON Noh LMDW

This one is called "Multi-Vintages #1", which means it consists of whiskies from different vintages and both bourbon and sherry-casked whisky. Just like most other OB's that are not SC. Oh yeah, and the batches are individually numbered too. The color is amber brown. It smells peppery, herbal, gunpowder, green leaves, butterscotch, melted chocolate, bonfire, tannins. The taste is bitter, wasabi, pistachio, honey, green leaves, bitter oranges, leather. Let's add some water. Now it turns richer, honey, vanilla, sage, dried herbs, dry cider, stewed onions, pretty decent sherried malt. But what I feel I have to emphasize from the three I've had so far, is that it seems to be mostly the cask talking. No real distillery character, at least that I can find. The finish is buttery, caramel, black pepper, red onions, clean and fresh.

Once again water improves a Karuizawa from good to great: 8


Karuizawa 15yo 1992-2007 60.6% Whisky magazine, Editors Choice cask#3434

This ones from an american white oak sherry butt. Does that mean its a sherry rejuvenated bourbon cask? Not that important. The color is deep amber. It smells peppery, cinnamon, dried paprika, honey, grapefruit, green apples, tea, herbal liqueur, bitters. I guess this is more the style we'd find in most Karuizawas if it was still operative. The taste is cinnamon, honey, chillies, tobacco, sweet sulphur, sweet licorice, ripe oranges, syrup. The finish is raw, ashes, cinnamon, chili. Lets add some water. Now it turns heather, ginger, grassy, hay, stewed onions, bitter, not a fav with water, but if neat, it was spectacular.

One of the best sherried palates I've had: 9


Karuizawa 22yo 1986-2008 60.7% OB cask#7387

Not a Noh. The color is amber. It smells licorice, honey, red apples, orange liqueur, wheat, sharp sherry notes, lime, ginger. The taste is peppery, hay, lime, bitter liqueur ginger, olives, sour grapes, olive oil. The finish is short and peppery. Lets add some water to this unusual (for what I'm able to reckon) Karuizawa. Now it turns sweeter, honeyed, light, gone in seconds.

My first disappointment from Karuizawa, but I haven't tried many: 4


Karuizawa 28yo 1984-2012 61.6% Number One Drinks cask#3692

From a sherry butt. With my own vintage on it, sure that must be a great sign? No, really, there aren't many 1984s around, remember, I was born on a low in the whisky market. The color is golden brown. It smells peat, honey, oaky, leather, mint, green tea, onions, coal, cherries, dark berries, plumb syrup, cinnamon, rich, creamy, tobacco, caramel, almonds, tannins, sweet red wine. The taste is dry sherry, oloroso, honey, chillies, tomato sauce, beans, vanilla, almost grainy, peaty, intense stuff. The finish is rather short and peppery. Lets add some water. Now it turns creamy, vanilla, ashes, peaty, bonfire, ginger, chillies.

The palate alone awards this: 8.5


Karuizawa 16yo 1994-2010 62.7% OB Noh cask#270

This one comes from a sherry butt. The color is golden, much lighter than the others in this session, and quite a strength. It smells vanilla, rubbery, burnt, oaky, raw onions, sulphur, really raw! The taste is banana, peppery, bitter, vanilla, onions, extremely bitter. This one calls for some water right away. Now it turns more rustic, red onions, cinnamon, red wine vinegar, sulphur, leather, waxy, drying. The finish is leather, grainy. This is a rough one.

A bit hard, concentrated and dry: 4



Next tasting: Nort Port/Brechin Distillery

Historic Distilleries: Coleburn

Coleburn shares some aspects with other closed distilleries, such as Convalmore, from the Speyside region, established in the 1890's, closed in the 1980's and never officially bottled as a single malt during its lifetime. The buildings still remain, but the equipment is gone and therefore it is highly unlikely that Coleburn will ever produce whisky again. The distilling license was cancelled in 1992. The very few IB's that have ever landed on the market from Coleburn have left little impressions on whisky-drinkers. But then again, most of them being in the lesser popular Connoisseur's Choice range from G&M, some might say that the distillery never was given a real chance. I'll have these 6 versions I'll have now now, is about as many whiskies I will ever get to try in one sitting from this distillery. Coleburn had its own floor malting, which was more normal back in those days, and the rumor is that its a clean and fresh highland style whisky. There are otherwise little information about the distillation at Coleburn, from online sources it seems the distillery is now being rented out as an entertainment venue.



Coleburn 17yo 1965-1982 40% Connoisseurs Choice Gordon & Macphail

Some evaporation in this oldie, which one would suspect for a spirit that's spent 3 decades in a bottle. The color on this one is golden brown, much like most CC-bottlings was back then with caramel coloring. It smells of honey, leather, cream crackers, wheat, white bread, not much really, but whats there is nice enough. The taste is peppery, oaky, sulphur, mild cigarettes, chalk, mustard seeds, grainy. I'll add some water. Now it turns sweeter, creamy vanilla, honey, strawberries, watermelon, kiwi, much better, a whisky that despite already being diluted needs additional water to really shine. The finish is short and peppery.

With water this is easily a 7 in my book: 7


Coleburn 14yo 1983-1997 43% Signatory Vintage cask#796 btl.779/3650

A young diluted Coleburn, don't be fooled into thinking this is from a massive sherry octave because of the high number of bottles, it's probably just been bottled as miniatures, which could be both a good or a bad sign. But that its watered down is usually the latter. The color is light golden. It smells of wheat, grassy, herbal, cardamum, coriander, scented candles, wax. The taste is sweet, drying, wheaty, almonds, flour sugar, cotton candy, fresh and sweet highland style. Short and peppery finish. A whisky that would suit perfectly as an aperitif, but lacks just a bit to get the conversation going if you know what I mean.

Pleasant: 6.5


Coleburn 13yo 1981-1994 43% James MacArthur's 500 Years of Scotch Whisky

Another low strength youngster. This time from James MacArthur's, another one that usually bottles at CS, but for some, maybe the same reason as SV, have decided to bottle this at 43%abv. only. The color on this one is pale golden. No added colorants here. It smells spirity, heather, licorice, rubber, lacquer, gasoline. This is a much more vicious malt than the other two thus far. Not necessarily better, but much more complex. The taste is sweet, butter, mint, mint julep, banana liqueur, some nasty spirity notes, I believe some water is needed here. Now this really tames the scents, but the taste becomes more salty, licorice, salted peanuts, blue cheese, immature gruyere, it does become better.

Nose without water, drink with water: 5


Coleburn 12yo 1969-1981 46% Cadenhead's for Samaroli Flowers

Another IB thats chosen to water down their young Coleburn. Thankfully I have a couple CS up next that might shine a light on why Coleburns so rarely are bottled at CS, or hopefully not. The color here is golden. But no colorant added. It smells of wheat crackers, cheese doodles, again gruyere and butter, some antiseptic and soapy notes, this one sure lacks some refined notes, this reminds me of Hankey Bannister blend, which is not a good thing for any single malt I'm afraid. Let's hope the palate fares better. The taste is sweet, butter, honey, very peppery, ginger, rubbery, plastic, many off-notes here, and for the price this whisky is sold for today, its better to stay away.

Young, raw, and quite unpleasant: 2.5


Coleburn 21yo 1979-2000 59.4% OB Rare Malts

Not really an OB as the distillery never made any money from this bottling while being closed before its release, but perhaps the closest we'll get to an OB Coleburn today. The color is golden. It smells sweet, oaky, leather, marzipan, frying oil, gasoline, paint, oil. The taste is sweet, rice wine, raw onions, grape soda, kinda nice, but a little on the light side for me, lets explore with water. Now it turns more sour and bitter, unripe apples, kumquats, tonic water, bitter grapes, orange zest, herbal/bitter liqueur. The finish is long and peppery. This whisky shows, if anything, why diluting Coleburn is a good idea. Withou water its boring and blend-like, with water it emerges as a tastebomb.

No fresh highland style, more like Littlemill or even Speyburn: 6


Coleburn 17yo 1978-1995 59.9% Cadenhead's

Cadenhead's is a bit of hit or miss if you ask me, they seem to bottle almost all whiskies at CS, and very often its a goodie, but sometimes they just miss, and then I guess a series like Connoisseurs Choice would come in handy. But every series has its black sheep I think, lets just hope this isn't one of Cadenhead's. The color is pale golden. It smells of, well, alcohol, very spirity, with some oaky notes as well, Iwon't add water before tasting it bare, but this nose sure isn't encouraging high hopes. The taste is sweet, vanilla, rubber, oily, peppery, grainy, one that might tempt me to use water as its very concentrated, but I'm afraid that nice sweet minty peppery vanilla will disappear. But just for research reasons I'll add some anyway. The taste is now more peppery, vanilla and clack pepper, even some peat smoke, one to try for all Islay fans thinks Speyside whiskies lacks character.

Pretty wile and extreme, but an adventure it is/was: 7

Coleburn then

Coleburn now

















Next tasting: 軽井沢

Historic Distilleries: Dallas Dhu

#1

#2

Once upon a time known as Dallasmore, Dallas Dhu was built under that name back in 1898, before changing to dallas Dhu one year later. It was sold one year after being built, in 1899. The first distillery on which a pagoda roof was raised. Some circumstances made it hard for Dallas Dhu to get a foothold in the whisky market. A high number of different owners through the years and a fire that burnt part of distillery down in 1939, right before WW2. So that fire perhaps didn't ruin as much as it could've. It started distilling again in 1947. In the 1950's electricity arrived at Dallas Dhu, the distillery was then modernized and they enjoyed some successful decades until its closure in 1983. In 1992 their distilling license was withdrawn. The distillery pretty much existed as a contributor to the blend Benmore in its late decades, but this blend is now only sold in very far away markets, and it was/is of rather poor quality, I've tried a miniature. The distillery is now kept in mint condition as a tourist attraction, or dead distillery exhibition if you like. It's not one of the distilleries we regret the most was closed down, but I believe it has its qualities. Lets try a bunch and see. Despite being in top condition there are little hope for any re-opening...



#1
Dallas Dhu 12yo 40% Gordon & Macphail

G&M bottled quite some DD's after its closure, and I'm afraid not many other IB's fancied any interest in this quiet Speysider. The color is golden. It smells of sweetness, honey, pistachio, roasted nuts, almonds, brittle. The taste is burnt, spirity, strong eucalyptus and licorice, peppery, rather weird one. There isn't much to say about this one I'm afraid, a very light and one-dimensional malt. There's a nice and sweet honey and biscuity finish, but not enough to rescue this whisky from being in the lower leagues.

Possibly a mixture of some 12yo and inferior older casks that's all been vatted and diluted: 3


Dallas Dhu 31yo 1980-2011 46% The Ultimate, Van Wees cask#2110

A very old one, why did they bottle it at 46%abv, could it be a CS at 46%abv? The color is golden. It smells of milk chocolate, buttery, caramel, honey, very light and simple, but without off-notes, its just that its just like any other blend on the nose. Perhaps the palate will show its a malt with more charisma. The taste is sweet, peppery, chalky, vanilla, seems like some pretty standard, yet flawless bourbon-casked speysider. I mean, the major difference between this and the 12yo is that this one have no flaws.

Inferior quality may be the only good reason for a 31yo to be diluted?: 3.5


Dallas Dhu NAS 1982 40% Gordon & Macphail

Another DD from G&M, this time its all from the same vintage, lets hope 1982 was a good year at Dallas Dhu. The color is golden. It smells of honey, wheat, cloves, grainy, very restrained. The taste is of wheat, citrus, white onions, raw garlic, bitter white wine, salmi, red ale. With added water it shows some hummus and more garlic, but its no complex malt. No finish at all.

These Dallas Dhues could go for Vodkas if it wasn't for the color: 3.5


Dallas Dhu NAS 1979 40% Gordon & Macphail

Three years younger Dallas Dhu, let's hope for a more expressive version than the prior three. The color is pale golden. It smells sweet honey, peppery, grassy, hay, wheat. Not much more expressive, but a bit of white rum and peach tea makes it just a bit more interesting so far. The taste is sweet, vanilla, pecans, chives, grassy, sour mango, kiwi, exotic sweet fruits, a pleasant summers dram, one to enjoy in with good company and perhaps some shellfish and white wine.

Lovely light Speysider: 7


Dallas Dhu 31yo 1968-2000 50% Old Malt Cask Douglas Laing

An oldie from a sherry cask. I don't think there are many such old vintages of Dallas Dhu still available, if you see one, please grab it, it might be your last chance. The color is amber brown. It smells of leather, licorice, ashes, phenols, cinnamon, grapefruit, cigars. The taste is all on cinnamon, stewed onions, butter, soy sauce, honey, a very decent sherried expression. The finish is long, salty and peppery, wit some sherry notes and gasoline. I'll add a drop of water though its not necessary with such a good whisky. With added water it turns more bitter, grassier, rubbery.

Take this neat, give it time, and you'll find its a very good wherried whisky: 8


Dallas Dhu 27yo 1981-2008 57.3% Part des Anges Closed Distilleries cask#366

From a bourbon cask, I'm thinking about making a baby crib of a 25l bourbon cask I've got at home. What? Where did that come from? Oh yeah, one thing that happens when your girlfriend or wife is pregnant, there will be a lot of baby talk, and after a while it becomes infectious... enough now... The color is golden. It smells of hay, wheat, vanilla, spirity notes, glue, detergent. Some off-notes in this one. The taste is very peppery, oaky, concentrated oak and vanilla flavors, intensely sweet. Time for some water even though its a good whisky neat too. I just believe there's likely to be hidden some great flavors behind that extreme sweetness. Now it turns more heathery, vanilla, clay, earthy, maize, grainy, pretty good one. The finish is peppery short, some pistachio and bitter leaves.

Intense Dallas Dhu, with all happening on the palate: 5.5


Dallas Dhu 27yo 1980-2007 57.6% Part des Anges Closed Distilleries cask#2107

Age and strength in the two PDA's are pretty similar, and just one vintage apart. Will the whisky be as similar? The color on this one is hazy golden. It smells sweet vanilla, flour sugar, wheat, syrup, spearmint, really light, like a bourbon-matured 40-46%. The taste is vanilla, peppery, burnt, heather, minty, burnt, oaky, sour milk, Not nearly as interesting as the 1981, there are much cheaper alternatives thats similar to this out there. The finish is peppery, lime, ginger and crayons.

I believe the price for the #366 and #2107 is pretty much the same, please buy the #366: 3


Dallas Dhu 31yo 1979-2010 58.5% Signatory Vintage cask#1385 btl.34/505

I had a full bottle of this, and back then filled a miniature for time like this. But it had little information of which cask was used, but seems to be a big one, 505 bottles. The color is golden. A refill butt it was! It smells malty and peppery, hay, vegetal, red onions, grassy, pickled cucumbers, vinegar, garlic, chives, burnt oak. The taste is peppery, licorice, honey, salmi, fruitgum, honey melon, heather, a sweet treat. With water it turns Once again I find another Dallas Dhu a bit too light and easy, perhaps its the character of Dallas Dhu that don't suit my palate that much. The finish is cinnamon, heather, honey, buttery, syrup, burnt sugar, minty.

A speysider with a certain highlander within: 6.5



#2
Dallas Dhu 16yo 43% Master of Malt

One of those miniatures with little information, another DD that I'm entering blindfolded, which could in many ways be positive. The color is white wine. It smells of hay and butter, citrus, lime, pineapple and grapefruit. A bit like a cheap fruity vodka, Smirnoff lemon or something? The taste is sweet, vanilla, grape fruit, pistachio, melon, yoghurt. Another light and pretty boring Dallas Dhu, but to be fair, there aren't many off-notes in this more. I'd have a hard time recognizing this one from an average+ blend, say Justerini & Brooks.

Mediocre experience: 3 (to get beneath 3 in my book there must be some obvious flaws)


Dallas Dhu 18yo 43% Master of Malt cask#2592

2 years older and from a single cask, a bourbon hogshead, so I guess I might meet a bit more oak character when approaching this one. Let's hope so. The color is white wine. It smells of wheat, wet hay, wool, rubber, sauna steam. Another one that's very light and quite like any cheap blend. The taste is sweet vanilla, peppery, heather, grassy, buttery, wheat, a really decent comeback from the rather tamed nose. I'd say this is well above blend territory, but far from a class malt. The finish is wheaty and peppery.

Pleasant enough, easy-drinking aperitif malt: 5


Dallas Dhu 19yo 43% Master of Malt

Seems Master of Malt bottled quite a few DD's bak in the days, great initiative, but I wish they did a couple more at CS. The color is golden. it smells of vanilla, oaky, cinnamon, honey, butter, syrup, another one thats just how I've now learned to predict a teenage 43%abv. Dallas Dhu to be. The taste is oranges, vanilla, nettles, ginger, dry herbs, banana leaves, peppery, raw onions, a bit more bite in this one than the prior two, but I still believe it needs some water to open up. Now it turns sweeter, vanilla, marshmallows, paint, aniseed, potato starch, parsnips, carrots, some sweet roots that makes it stand a bit apart in this sitting, for the better. The finish is sweet and peppery, lasts for about 5 seconds.

Some glimmers of excellence on the palate, otherwise dull: 5


Dallas Dhu 17yo 1974-1992 43% Signatory Vintage cask#1496 btl.658/2400

One of these old miniatures from Signatory with a great look, much better than the modern ones in my opinion, the batch and feather, black on white, its just clean and classic. The color is golden amber. It smells of dry red wine, tannins, sugar, caramel, drying, latex, shortbread. The taste is sweet, sulphury, rubbery, sugar, dried bananas, cardamum, peppery, drying, bitter notes, it becomes rather unpleasant after a short while in the glass. Time to add some water. Now it turns sweeter with some honey, kiwi and mango. A great alternative it you're looking for an affordable DD, well not today I assume. Anyway, this is maybe as good as it gets when we're talking young dilutes Dallas Dhus.

Rich, phenolic and flinty, minerals: 7


Dallas Dhu 21yo 50% Old Malt Cask Douglas Laing

Douglas Laing have long stopped doing miniatures, but instead you can buy these new 20cl "Advance Samples" which gives more the impression of an exclusivity. The color on this one is pale amber. It smells of honey, leather, oak, wheat, glue, mustard. The taste is meaty, syrupy, beef broth, egg cream, malt syrup, bean sprouts, bourbon notes, camomile, a nice surprise, but as was most old OMC's. The finish is heather, red berries, cherry wine, flinty, I'd say this must be from some sherry wood. Not very complex or thrilling in any way, but a nice and clean sherried whisky.

Nice intro to Dallas Dhu, balanced: 7


Dallas Dhu 19yo 1978-1997 59.6% Signatory Vintage for 2nd Internationale Whiskymesse 1997 btl.90/240

I'm not sure the annual Internationale Whiskymesse are still being held till this date. In case you wanna check it out it was held in Rheingau in mid october. The color is golden. It smells of phenol, brunt rubber, petrol, gasoline, soapy, malty. The taste is peppery, bittersweet, wheat crackers, ginger, licorice, hay, floral. I'll add some water. Now it turns more bitter, salmi, burnt oak, raw ginger. The finish is wheaty, hay, dry, roast beef, dry chicken meat.

Overall, one of the best Dallas Dhus I've tasted: 7


Dallas Dhu 18yo 1974-1993 60.8% Signatory Vintage cask#1498 btl.52/1800

Seems they had some tight casks at Dallas Dhu. Butts? European Oak? The label states nothing more than that its an oak cask, which usually hints to it not being a sherry cask, but not always. The color is golden. It smells of wheat, butter, mushrooms, grassy, lemon peel. The taste is very raw, earthy, raw onions, cloves, poppy seeds, pumpkin seeds, sour notes, grapefruit, lemon. Time to add some water. Now it turns even more bitter and raw, bad oak? It does taste mostly like poorly made vinegar if you ask me. The finish is peppery and short.

Signatory and Dallas Dhu seems to be an varying combination: 2.5

I'm afraid I only found recent photos of Dallas Dhu, so there will be no other. When this photo was taken back in 2006 it had long since shut down production and started as a whisky/distillation gallery of some sort.








Next tasting: Coleburn Distillery