lørdag 6. april 2013
Historic Distilleries: Coleburn
Coleburn shares some aspects with other closed distilleries, such as Convalmore, from the Speyside region, established in the 1890's, closed in the 1980's and never officially bottled as a single malt during its lifetime. The buildings still remain, but the equipment is gone and therefore it is highly unlikely that Coleburn will ever produce whisky again. The distilling license was cancelled in 1992. The very few IB's that have ever landed on the market from Coleburn have left little impressions on whisky-drinkers. But then again, most of them being in the lesser popular Connoisseur's Choice range from G&M, some might say that the distillery never was given a real chance. I'll have these 6 versions I'll have now now, is about as many whiskies I will ever get to try in one sitting from this distillery. Coleburn had its own floor malting, which was more normal back in those days, and the rumor is that its a clean and fresh highland style whisky. There are otherwise little information about the distillation at Coleburn, from online sources it seems the distillery is now being rented out as an entertainment venue.
Coleburn 17yo 1965-1982 40% Connoisseurs Choice Gordon & Macphail
Some evaporation in this oldie, which one would suspect for a spirit that's spent 3 decades in a bottle. The color on this one is golden brown, much like most CC-bottlings was back then with caramel coloring. It smells of honey, leather, cream crackers, wheat, white bread, not much really, but whats there is nice enough. The taste is peppery, oaky, sulphur, mild cigarettes, chalk, mustard seeds, grainy. I'll add some water. Now it turns sweeter, creamy vanilla, honey, strawberries, watermelon, kiwi, much better, a whisky that despite already being diluted needs additional water to really shine. The finish is short and peppery.
With water this is easily a 7 in my book: 7
Coleburn 14yo 1983-1997 43% Signatory Vintage cask#796 btl.779/3650
A young diluted Coleburn, don't be fooled into thinking this is from a massive sherry octave because of the high number of bottles, it's probably just been bottled as miniatures, which could be both a good or a bad sign. But that its watered down is usually the latter. The color is light golden. It smells of wheat, grassy, herbal, cardamum, coriander, scented candles, wax. The taste is sweet, drying, wheaty, almonds, flour sugar, cotton candy, fresh and sweet highland style. Short and peppery finish. A whisky that would suit perfectly as an aperitif, but lacks just a bit to get the conversation going if you know what I mean.
Pleasant: 6.5
Coleburn 13yo 1981-1994 43% James MacArthur's 500 Years of Scotch Whisky
Another low strength youngster. This time from James MacArthur's, another one that usually bottles at CS, but for some, maybe the same reason as SV, have decided to bottle this at 43%abv. only. The color on this one is pale golden. No added colorants here. It smells spirity, heather, licorice, rubber, lacquer, gasoline. This is a much more vicious malt than the other two thus far. Not necessarily better, but much more complex. The taste is sweet, butter, mint, mint julep, banana liqueur, some nasty spirity notes, I believe some water is needed here. Now this really tames the scents, but the taste becomes more salty, licorice, salted peanuts, blue cheese, immature gruyere, it does become better.
Nose without water, drink with water: 5
Coleburn 12yo 1969-1981 46% Cadenhead's for Samaroli Flowers
Another IB thats chosen to water down their young Coleburn. Thankfully I have a couple CS up next that might shine a light on why Coleburns so rarely are bottled at CS, or hopefully not. The color here is golden. But no colorant added. It smells of wheat crackers, cheese doodles, again gruyere and butter, some antiseptic and soapy notes, this one sure lacks some refined notes, this reminds me of Hankey Bannister blend, which is not a good thing for any single malt I'm afraid. Let's hope the palate fares better. The taste is sweet, butter, honey, very peppery, ginger, rubbery, plastic, many off-notes here, and for the price this whisky is sold for today, its better to stay away.
Young, raw, and quite unpleasant: 2.5
Coleburn 21yo 1979-2000 59.4% OB Rare Malts
Not really an OB as the distillery never made any money from this bottling while being closed before its release, but perhaps the closest we'll get to an OB Coleburn today. The color is golden. It smells sweet, oaky, leather, marzipan, frying oil, gasoline, paint, oil. The taste is sweet, rice wine, raw onions, grape soda, kinda nice, but a little on the light side for me, lets explore with water. Now it turns more sour and bitter, unripe apples, kumquats, tonic water, bitter grapes, orange zest, herbal/bitter liqueur. The finish is long and peppery. This whisky shows, if anything, why diluting Coleburn is a good idea. Withou water its boring and blend-like, with water it emerges as a tastebomb.
No fresh highland style, more like Littlemill or even Speyburn: 6
Coleburn 17yo 1978-1995 59.9% Cadenhead's
Cadenhead's is a bit of hit or miss if you ask me, they seem to bottle almost all whiskies at CS, and very often its a goodie, but sometimes they just miss, and then I guess a series like Connoisseurs Choice would come in handy. But every series has its black sheep I think, lets just hope this isn't one of Cadenhead's. The color is pale golden. It smells of, well, alcohol, very spirity, with some oaky notes as well, Iwon't add water before tasting it bare, but this nose sure isn't encouraging high hopes. The taste is sweet, vanilla, rubber, oily, peppery, grainy, one that might tempt me to use water as its very concentrated, but I'm afraid that nice sweet minty peppery vanilla will disappear. But just for research reasons I'll add some anyway. The taste is now more peppery, vanilla and clack pepper, even some peat smoke, one to try for all Islay fans thinks Speyside whiskies lacks character.
Pretty wile and extreme, but an adventure it is/was: 7
Coleburn then
Coleburn now
Next tasting: 軽井沢
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