5 Taliskers following the peaty trail

Mostly "younger" old ones in this tasting, and a really "old" old one, and a very recent 18yo standard OB 2010 version. I remember some years back when the 18yo were darker and more sherried in style, superb whisky, but it seems to have dropped a bit in recent years, a bit like the 12yo Highland Park OB. So it's going to be fun to try it against these older bottlings from the 70's, 80's and 90's.


Talisker NAS 80's 40% Gordon & Macphail flat miniature Black/Red label w. eagle

I think G&M bottled some of these bottles as 8yo's at both 40% and 57%. But as there is no age statement to be found on this bottle I'll assume it could be anything. Smells sweet and peaty, oloroso peat? It has even the slightest hint of roasted almonds and orange marmalade. Seems like a rich and heavy Islander. At this strength, impressive. The taste is minty and leathery, again these orange jammy, thick and sweet notes. The mint is sort of a bummer as it shows it's a young and maybe a bit too diluted whisky for my taste. And the peat that was there on the nose is lacking on the palate. But there's some honey and roasted chilies in the finish. Maybe some water will help it a bit even if its a damn good whisky already. The water makes the peat stand out a bit more, and if that's your cue do so, but for me, it was much nicer when the sherry notes were dominating this tasting.

An older bottling that probably had potential to be so much more: 6.5


Talisker 8yo 45.8% OB John Walker & Sons 70's

One with the Johnnie Walker pedestrian on the label, dating back to the 70's according to online reliable information. The label states its "The Golden Spirit of the Isle of Skye". Seems to be somewhat color adjusted for an 8yo diluted whisky. A victim of its time? It smells much more coastal and peaty than the G&M. Smoked, oysters, salty, dried shrimps, seaweed, leather, chalk dust, slightly rubbery but in a good way. The taste is thick, peaty and peppery alongside some sea salt, red onions, rubbery (but in a good way, quite fascinating...), bitter, herbal, this one has it all and it's quite the peat monster as well. I must say I have tried many Islayers at cask strength around 60%abv. that was never near having the bollocks of this one.

Old style peated whisky, a foundation for the reputation Talisker has today: 9


Talisker 18yo 45.8% OB 2010

The one that really got me interested in this distillery, I had a small sip of this one back in 2008 when I was on vacation in Edinburgh. I remember that one being a quite dark whisky with hints of sweet sherry and firm smokiness. How will this much lighter colored version compare? Hints of some light sherry, bourbon vanilla, gentle (maybe too gentle) peatiness and raspeberries, fish stock, honey, cinnamon, a bit thin it seems. The taste is extremely light, peppermint candy and vanilla. The light hints of sherry wood are now all gone. This is a dessert whisky after a toffee pudding or whatever's in you freezer, but it's far from the old Talisker 18 that I remember hit me with peat and power a some years back.

Nice, good, well rounded, silky, smooth, but you know what I really mean: 6.5


Talisker 38yo 1955-1993 53.6% Gordon & Macphail Cask cask#1310,1311,1257

A vatting of 3 different sherry casks, and the oldest Talisker I've ever tasted by far. I think this is a nice way to round off an otherwise good year. Oh, there is one more after this, but I think that of sentimental reasons, this might be the highlight of this tasting. But what is it gonna be like? I always ask myself why IB's does vattings of such old casks? Are there any flaws? Dark brown color. Smells initially like a sherry bomb like no other, but this one needs time. Smells of battery acid and gasoline, phenolic, burnt rubber, I'm almost tempted to pour water in this one even before tasting it bare, but considering the content I'm not going to. It's a big one, but I'm afraid the huge sherry influence kills the peatiness in this one, at least on the nose. I have to taste it bare.. The taste is initially all on phenols and peaty notes, a crazy mix, and so dry that it's almost impossible to enjoy without water nearby. I think it needs a small teaspoon of water. With 2 1/2 teaspoons of water added, to be precise, it gets so much sweeter, strawberries, coriander, sweet licorice, blueberry jam, honey, syrup, melon, amazing now. The only problem s that it lacks peat. Didn't they use peat in the distillation at Talisker back in the 50's? But that huge Talisker peppery notes in the finish are amazing.

Without water it's not my style, but add some, and it's easily a winner: 9


Talisker 14yo 1979-1993 64.3% Cadenhead's

The only reason I'll have this one after the great 1955 is that it has a way higher alcohol content. But I might regret that looking back on the huge, rich sweetness from the 1955 that's still lurking on my palate. But anyway, this should definitively be a blast from the past. light golden color with lots of cask sediments, wasn't this one filtered? I don't mind. Smells all peaty and spirity, considering the alcohol level its no wonder. Once again I have to try i undiluted, but I guess it could ruin my tastebuds. The taste is a fantastic mix of honey, peat, lemon and black peppers. Who'd knew?!! I'll admit it, I'm now glad I saved this one for last. And I won't add water to this, not yet at least. The finish is all on toasted peat and honey. It's sort of one-dimensional, the palate is the same as the finish, but why search for complexity when the simplicity is that good.

Another one that'll never come back, I'm afraid: 9



Next tasting: Bruichladdich Distillery

2012 already? What happened??

Yesteryear I was having a rather long, for my site that is, and quite subjective post on what happened in 2010. This one will be much shorter, but some interesting changes there has been in 2011.

Tullibardine's been sold to a french group. I have no views on this other than that it's usually a malt that's already hard to come across, and it also seems to be a mile or two between each "good" bottling. So, I'm not too worried as it seems it can only go one way... or?

Kininvie has stopped producing whisky, a distillery of which produce I have yet to taste, unfortunately. It would've been fun to try someday, but that hope is fading by the hour it now seems.

Tamdhu has been bought by the Edrington Group after being mothballed for about a year. Another distillery that's maybe not my favorite, but the ones that's been amazing have all been older sherried versions.. Hopefully there's still some of those casks left in the warehouses. As it seems with Glengoyne, the Edrington Group does like to show of a distillery with some older fancy single sherry cask bottlings.

Glen Keith is possibly going to start producing spirit again in a few years time.

Glenglassaugh's first newmake after reopening has made it into whisky.

New Cask Projects

As of november 2011 I had two new cask projects going. The cream sherry I previously held in these casks showed to be a little to much to handle for the poor 50% Glenglassaugh Newmake. So this time I did place amontillado sherry in cask 1/2 and fino sherry in cask 2/2. The sherries are

Burdon Fino
Valdivia Dorius Amontillado

So, hopefully these sherries will add some more complexity to the newmakes instead of hi-jacking the whole palate. And I also hope that using this new-make at 69%abv from Tullibardine Distillery, it will have some more stamina when it comes to keeping the wood influence at bay. The casks will be filled with new-make somewhere at the end of January 2012.

Starting the peaty streak with 4 Lagavulins

As mentioned I'll be doing some peated tastings this winter, and although I've already had some Ardbegs, Laphroaigs and even some Bowmores, I think the tastings that'll follow starting with this one, will give me some new peaty preferences.


Lagavulin 12yo 43% OB White Horse Distillers

I think this is a bottling from the 70's. It'll be fun to try such an old standard from a distillery that's so popular despite being so "unfashionable". Dark copper color, some coloring going on here? Or some sherry wood in the mix? Smells burnt, rotting hay, nail polish remover, cinnamon, peat, salt, earthy, kind of dirty style. The taste is sweet, lots of oloroso sherry, leather, dark chocolate and cinnamon going on here. Almost too sweet, but then the peat kicks in, and it puts a thick layer of cigar smokiness over the entire thing. But it's not coastal in any way, at least not on the palate. There must be some fantastic casks in this vatting, I don't think they make them like this anymore.

If this is anything to go by, Lagavulin might be a new favorite: 9


Lagavulin 12yo 1995-2007 48% OB Friends of the Classic Malts

From a first fill european oak cask. That usually means sherry, or? About the same color as the 12yo WHD. A bit higher abv, but no older stock in this one. Smells more raw and peated. Spirity. Honey, waxy and lime zest. The taste is sherried, with a spicier and peatier kick. Lacks some of the nice oloroso layers that the HWD had, but again, the peat tells the story of a modern and fashionable spirit that's easily could've managed 10 years more on oak and still stood its ground. Although it carries a bitter sting and some spirity rage, it has enough oak influence and nice peaty notes to make for an interesting everyday peated dram.

Nowhere near the WHD, but still a good dram: 6


Lagavulin 12yo 1995-2007 57.1% OB

Same vintage as the Friends of... version. But this time from a bourbon cask and bottled at a much higher strength. Is this a peat-monster, sort of Laphroaig-style, or will the lemony Lagavulin character shine through? It smells smoky, citrussy, banana, honey, cigar smoke, lemongrass and mead. The taste is spicy as hell, lemon zest, orange marmalade, green chilies, white pepper, thyme, sea salt, junipers, a most pleasant surprise as I thought this one was gonna be more spirity and peaty than the Friends' version. A bit drying, but not in a bad way, more like some sweet and dry white wine.

A more classical peaty approach in this one: 7


Celp NAS 55% The Ultimate Whisky Company

I've already had this one alongside some other new-make/spirits from the Loch Ewe distillery among others. I felt that didn't give me a fair basis for comparison as this one sailed up as the ultimate top dog in that tasting. So now I'm giving it a go alongside some of its peers what origin of produce is concerned. Yes, it's still green and has some dead seaweed inside the bottle. It smells sweet, smoky, lemony, like a very nice Gin actually. Or, it would have been the best gin I'd had so far I think. The taste is lemony, peppery, peaty, salty, seaweed, smoked herring, green paprikas, sweet chili, roasted almonds and honey. If tasted blind I would definitively say this one is the closest to what I'd expect from a produce of Lagavulin Distillery.

Shows that the Lagavulin Spirit is top produce: 7.5



Next tasting: Talisker Distillery

5 Bunnahabhains, 3 from the Macphail's Collection and 2 oldies

I am doing my last whisky session before christmas today. Bunnahabhain it was. Most Bunnahabhains that I've tried and not been standards, have almost always been older ones. So today I'm going for three young ones from the Macphail's collection of different vintages, and two older ones at thirty-something, both distilled in 1976. I promised you some peaty tastings, but that'll be after christmas, this will do for now I'm afraid.


Bunnahabhain 11yo 1997-2008 43% G&M The Macphail's Collection

I think this is the most recent vintage of Bunnahabhain in this series from G&M, and maybe the last one as well? The Macphail's Collection was a series that I think had its peak in the late 80's early 90's. As an alternative to the many CC-bottlings that were on the market? Time to see what it was all about. This one should not be too far rom the 12yo OB in style? light straw color. Smells of hay, peat, black peppers, rubber, wheat. I know there's little or no peat involved in Bunnahabhain usually, but there is some peatiness present here. The taste is rubbery, licorice, hay, wheat again, sort of dry, but not in a drying way like tannins or lime juice, more like dry dusty air, old attic "filth dryness". But give it some time and swirl it around in your mouth and there is an ardbeg-ish feel to it. Lemon and peat. The aftertaste is spirity and bitter, ad leaves me reaching for a glass of water to drown these flavors with.

Predictable Islay-whisky, until the dirty and foul finish: 3.5


Bunnahabhain 14yo 1990-2004 40% G&M The Macphail's Collection

This one has got a few more years in the cask to boast, but it's also bottled at an even lower strength than the 1997. How will it compare? It is a bit darker, a cross between golden yellow and orange. It smells iodine, chalk, rubber, black peppers, honey mustard, wet wool and salty water. The taste is huge on rubber and dried red paprika. A slight acidity as well. This one is a small leap up from the last one, but has some less than nice acidic notes. Seems to be a bit over-oaked as well. This opens up a bit more as minutes goes by. After a while it's more on sour, lemon and kiwi, and acidic. This lemon-stuff is found in both, and they're not as far apart as I might suspected. The aftertaste is sweet, molasses spirit, peppery and rubber.

A bit more "complex" in lack of a better words, but not necessarily better: 4


Bunnahabhain 10yo 1988-1998 40% G&M The Macphail's Collection

One produced close to a decade earlier than the 1997, but maybe Bunnahabhain was better back then? Darkest one so far what color is concerned. Dark orange. It smells old and musty, coarse mustard, white tawny port, leather, ropes, charcoal and cinnamon. The taste is sweet and bitter, like a genever or even Gammel Dansk. This doesn't taste like whisky. I have to add water to this since the nosed made a promise of sherried notes. With some water it gets even mustier, brinier, and much more bitter. There's definitively some sherry wood involved here with that delicate gunpowder/struck matches coming through. All in all an interesting whisky that you won't find many of.

If you like a bitter whisky, this could be the one for you: 4.5


Bunnahabhain 33yo 1976-2010 49% Celtic Heartlands

Edit: After trying this one the first time, I realized there might have been an mistake, and now I see that the 4.5 should have gone to a completely different whisky that I by accident put into my glass, and it wasn't even a Bunnahabhain, time to update my sample-system! So this is the Celtic Heartland-bottling then. Orange color, like cinnamon or peach tea. Smells of light herbs, like basil, coriander, laurels. Also cumin and parsnip, some nutty and sweet vegetable flavors, even potato starch. The taste is dried red paprika, dill, coriander, reminds me somehow of rich korma, there's some coconut sweetness here and lavender. Starting to sound like some funky stuff, biut it's not that. It's just miles away from other Bunnahabhains, and quite exotic. This is something that I'm used to find in some weird cask finish from Glenmorangie or Bruichladdich. But that doesn't mean its bad, it's just way different.

A strange but very pleasant Bunna: 5.5


Bunnahabhain 32yo 1976-2008 55.2% The Whisky Agency Sharks

Matured in a fino sherry cask, should I expect a bitter surprise? It had to be a fino if sherried, as it's pale as white wine after no less than 32 years. It has the same vintage as the CH-bottling, but I surely hope it can leap what that one put on the table. Huge, perfumy, bitter, roses, floral, burnt synthetic fabric, parmesan, dry and bitter, still so big that its hard to describe without being excessive. Lets just say it's a damn good cask so far. The taste is burnt, peppery and bitter, needs some water. With additional water it opens a bit up, but it's still very bitter and rubbery.

After the nice nosing it totally collapsed: 4


North of Scotland 1964 57.1% OB cask#37526

Bonus!!!: Since I made a capital error during the tasting of the 32yo from Celtic Heartland, I'm throwing in a tasting note of this single grain rarity. Pale green-is color, I don't know how old this one could be. It smells of lime, honey, nectarine, roquefort cheese, muyo picante (or something like that), it's got a certain fruity yet spicy flare to it I'd say. The taste is almost waxy, reminds me of some Clynelishes I've tried in the past, and even some high strength Fettercairns. It's a fun fact that although most distilleries are situated in the Highlands, there are very few grain distilleries there, this was one of them, now sadly closed down. It's a tad too raw and peppery on the palate, I'll add some water. Now it becomes more citrussy, orange zest, grapefruit, floral, turnip, parsnip, some other root vegetables that's hard to describe any better.

A rare treat, thankfully I have a little left of this somewhere: 5



Next Tasting: Lagavulin Distillery

Christmas whisky, unknown speysider & two high strength blends.

A mixed little tasting today. Lately I have felt its been one too many of those one tasting/one distillery sessions. So as I sat there romancing about the older days when my tastings could include anything and everything, I came up with the idea of combining blends and single malts for once. And in this tasting I wouldn't be surprised if the blends will be superior.


Master of Malt 12yo 1980-1992 43% Select Cask

Says to have spent 12 years in sherry casks, so a mix of sherry casks then. Very light in color, some refill wood, or white sherry? Maybe a mix. This was bottled almost 20 years ago, so there could be some bottle-maturation going on here, for those of you that believe in such. I do! Smells dry, cinnamon, garlic, cloves, thyme, lots of dried herbs. The taste is definitively on the bitter side of sherried, and to my surprise, peaty! Peat and bitter herbs, along with small stings on the palate of what I reckon to mimic soap and fusel. I mean, it's far from a pretty whisky. I dare say its so ugly that its hard to not enjoy. Like any good working class hero, it has its problems, but the fact is it has some charm.

A great surprise, no sweet and tame oloroso-notes here: 6.5


Christmas 20yo 1980-2000 52.2% Seasons Greetings

Well, the title for this single tasting is all information there is to be found on this bottle. Except from "Single Speyside" and "5cl product of Scotland". So this one doesn't say anything about being a malt or even a whisky... dubious at least. But 20yo single speyside something can't be that bad? Could it be a Glenfarclas, or some 20yo moonshine, who knows? White wine color. Smells spirity and oaky, not very pleasant, reminds me of some of the bad stuff I've tried from the likes of Glenallachie and Knockando. Given enough time, say 10 minutes, some burnt sugar, rhubarb and grenadine comes to the surface, a strange one it is. The taste is the highlight so ar, it has this small peatiness that I found in the 12yo as well, fusel and soap is present, but the herbal notes aren't here. This one must be from some dry and bitter sherry casks, fino? Maybe it is in need of some water. Water provides a lighter and sweeter malt, more speyside-ish, and a bit more bland if you know what I mean...

Another one that, except the nose, seems to be a rare treat: 6


Campbell's Tomintoul Special NAS 57% P&J Campbell, The Glenlivet Whisky Depot

An older bottling, probably a 70's or 80's bottling. Sort of the same that G&M released a bunch of back then. A flat and square-ish one. Golden brown color. The nose is perfumy, raisins, licorice, toffee, syrup, mint gel, big mustard notes, a nice one. Okay, time to post one of my regards, I think that the reason many blends are looked so much down on as they are, is the fact that they're usually watered down to 40-43% to make profit. But if bottled at higher strengths they could've been just as good as most single malts. The taste is sort of harsh, cappuccino, coffee beans, leather, dry, musty, very good, if you like your whisky dry and a bit on the wild side. It's from another era, I wonder if there's any older Tomintoul in this one. Reminds me somewhat of Glenfarclas, but also Dalmore. Damn, I like it a lot, I just can't find the words to justify that.

Dirty whisky: 6.5


Avonside NAS 57% G&M James Gordon & Co

I think this is a bottling fro Gordon & Macphail's but I'm not sure. I know that G&M have/had a blend that's called Avonside. Same flat bottle as the Campbell's. Orange hue. This one has a certain, and pretty demanding scent of orange peel. Orange peel and spirit. The taste is just burnt. This is a bad example of a blend gone wrong. The spirity notes overpowers everything else here. And the lack of just a small hint of sweetness, sherry, peat, oak, herbal or anything else, makes this seem like the aforementioned moonshine I was expecting from the Christmas 2000. Maybe, I mean, I hope that some water will create sort of a redemption here. With water, well, to say it gets better would be an overstatement, but it lessens the burden that's put on the palate when drunk bare.

Blends can be as good as the best single malts, but as bad as the worst as well: 1



Next tasting: Bunnahabhain Distillery

5 Clynelishes, another peaty tasting(?)

Lately I have enjoyed many peated tastings with Laphroaig, Port Ellen, Bowmore, Ardbeg, Caol Ila and peaty Bruichladdichs all represented just in the last three months.I thought that from spring 2011 and across summer I had almost only soft Speysiders and Highlanders, so a change needed to happen. Now I feel such a change is just around the corner. Bunnahabhain, Port Ellen, Highland Park, Lagavulin and Talisker will be tasted during the winter before I travel back to the scottish mainland and settle in with speysiders, lowlanders, highlanders and campbeltowners again. Now Clynelish isn't peated like the Islayers, it's a highlander and therefore have a much lesser coastal profile. I do not believe there is any peat involved in the making of Clynelish today, but it used to be. Older bottlings are said to have similarities to the whisky that once were produced at Brora Distillery.


Clynelish 10yo 1990-2000 43% Signatory Vintage cask#3219

From a bourbon barrel, should mean a light and fresh highlander, a perfect starter to such an adventure this tasting could turn out to be. A fine golden hued youngster. Smells very floral, white bell peppers, cumin, hints of smoke and oil paint. The taste is refreshingly sweet, again this nice paprika and cumin. Oily and fat, seems much stronger than just 43%. Palm oil, lavendel, waxy, fresh coriander and muesli. To be just 10yo and at such a low strength, this one has got a lot of charisma. Seems both older and stronger. I wish they'd bottled this one at cask strength, or even let it sit some more years in the wood.

A perfect starter whisky, soft and oily: 6


Clynelish 38yo 1972-2010 45.8% The Whisky Agency

From an ex-sherry cask that only produced 134 bottles, quite some evaporation then. From a series called Private Stock. Light orange color, smells more peaty, tangy, nectarine, tonic water, orange zest, sweet sherry, sort of a mixture of different sweet spices. The taste is big, rounded, soy sauce, dark grape juice, black pepper, dried molasses, orange peel, cinnamon, maybe it's just a seasonal influence on the whole experience, but this is has a lot on the palate that reminds me of christmas. With additional water it turns a bit sweeter, but now the oak really screams. Oaky, oaky, oaky and even more oaky. I dare saying this one should've been bottled earlier although I know many must disagree.

If you love sherried whisky, try this, if not, don't even think about it: 5


Clynelish 37yo 1972-2009 46% TWA 10th. Anniversary

From same bottler as the 38yo, but much lighter in color. This one is not from a single cask as far as I can tell. And I think there could be some dilution involved even though it's pretty much the same %abv as the 38yo. It smells light and buttery, needs to be left with some air for a while. Opens up to some peatiness, huge peppery and oaky notes. Cardamum seeds, grassiness and basil. Pleasant, reminds me of some older versions of Mortlach. The taste is thick and sweet, honey, sirup, roasted coffee, burnt toast, black pepper and apple cider. Not the class one might expect after such a long time in the wood, but absolutely drinkable.

If you like a submissive malt, here you go: 5.5


Clynelish 14yo 1997-2011 53.9% Archives www.whiskybase.com

The whiskybase shop is a new and interesting shop with quite fair prices, considering todays standard. I have already bought my first full bottle from this shop, a 16yo Fettercairn at a very good price. The standard Clynelish is bottled at 14yo, maybe that is the magic age for this distillate? Of course not, it's all bout the oak, or is it? Very pale, white wine. Smells peppery, peaty and waxy, much more vigorous than the previous two. And if I use the term "classic" I think it would describe how i experience this one so far even though I'm not too sure what the classic Clynelish should taste like. Peaty, peppery, waxy on the flavour alongside some fresh mint and yellow jackfruit.

Textbook peaty highlander: 6.5


Clynelish 20yo 1982-2002 63.3% Lombard, Jewels of Scotland

This one is hopefully gonna be something else, as up until now in this tasting it's mostly been all good but none the amazing. Pale color, it's rarely I find bourbon casks at this age having this strength, so I'm assuming it's european wood? It reeks vanilla, vanilla all over the place, sweet honey and vanilla, creamy, splendid stuff, a dessert all on its own. Rich dark chocolate on vanilla ice cream. Splendid. The taste is very dry and burnt, apple vinegar and phenol. This one needs water. With water added it turns into a more bitter version, bitter schnaps with more licorice than herbs.

This one is not my favorite, but the nose was impressive: 5



Next tasting: Christmas malts, anonymous malts and high strength blends

5 Laphroaig's, this is Christmas's wonder for me!

I have to admit that if I weren't to fall in love with Fettercairn so shortly after starting drinking scotch, I would definitively be an eager Laphroaig enthusiast by now. But seeing the price range of some of the older stuff from Laphroaig I guess it's all for the better. After a couple of pretty mediocre tastings lately I think this one could be the highlight so far in December. Btw. Earlier today I watched the christmas animation movie "Polar Express". If you want to be in good spirit this christmas, please don't do the same. Anyway, I hope in this tasting there maybe will be a whisky or two that saves christmas.


Laphroaig NAS 48% OB Quarter Cask

Just to prepare my tastebuds for this peat-enhanced session I'll start with an old classic, the Quarter cask. This has only been finished in Quarter casks. But since they are such small cask their impact on the whiskies evolves much faster. A bit darker color on this one than what I recall. Smells spirity, with a huge oak impact, and some resinous and phenols, could a bigger part of this come from sherry wood? Smells very drying, like burnt pine wood, or toasted mushrooms. The taste is sweet, vanilla-liqueur and lots of oak and a peaty aftertaste. I'm not too fond of this expression, I think it's too oaky. That's about it, one I'll forget very soon.

Laphroaig should be sold at cask strength! IMO: 3


Laphroaig 17yo 1993-2010 48.2% Old Malt Cask Douglas Laing cask#6630

From a refill hoggie. Usually the bottlings of this series are bottled at 50%abv. Which usually means they've been watered down a bit. But if you want the cask strengths from this series, do buy the ones below 50%abv, like this one. Although they usually have slipped below 50% due to a not so tight cask, at least it's not been added water past production date. White wine color, smells huge on the sweetness, honey, banana, caramel, marzipan, stirred coconut milk, lemon fudge, sweet all over the place with a small hint of something citric. Much bigger than the QC, and I like it. The taste is more burnt, tarry, smoky, not as peaty as the QC, more coastal with hints of seaweed and waves of sea salt, a very salty flavor. A restrained bitterness of unripe pomegranate and bitter plums. Although an interesting challenge on the palate, and one that will start the talk around the table, this one is perhaps not Islay-ish enough if u know what I mean.

As if there were fino-casks involved: 4.5


Laphroaig 12yo 1998-2011 54.9% First Cask Jean Boyer cask#700283

Seems that both Laphroaig itself and the IB's loves the use of hogsheads when it comes to which casks to use. This one comes from a fresh bourbon hogshead. I have a passion for young cask strength Laphroaigs, usually around the age of ten and around 60%abv. This one is not that strong, but maybe the mould, or angels if you like, takes a bigger share of alcohol from smaller casks? Will this be the first peat-monster in this session? Peat, strawberry, vanilla and tar on the nose, the perfect mix of coastal Islay and a good cask. The taste is peaty, a bit perfumy (not in a bad way), tarry, bonfire, roasted wood, fresh lime juice and again these nice and sweet strawberry notes. Very good Laphroaig.

One that leaps high on the taste scale compared to whatever else: 8.5


Laphroaig 27yo 1980-2007 57.4% OB Vintage

A dark sherry-matured sample bottle that I won by making a semi-critical statement of the range of whiskies available at the Norwegian Wine Monopoly in comparison to the rather excellent selection there is to be found in the swedish Systembolaget, on a Norwegian whisky forum. Many thanks Arve! And this must be the darkest Laphroaig I have ever come across, maybe the oldest as well. This is a pleasantly daunting experience somehow. The nose is huge, phenolic, raisins, prunes, honey, spicy cinnamon, dark chocolate, heavy sweet oloroso sherry, dark syrup, fried cod liver, sun-dried tomatoes, bonfire, juniper, roasted nuts, this one just goes on and on. One of the best nosings I've ever had. The taste is so heavy, thick dark syrup, lots of sweet oloroso elements, again this spicy cinnamon and just before it's all starting to go a bit too much fruitcake, the peat hits me, not in an excessive way like with many of the powerful youngsters I like so much. But in a smooth, really relaxed and comfortable way, like the flavors that are left after you've just had a good puff from a good cuban. The aftertaste is peaty, again a bit fruity, dark fruits of the forest and dark grape seeds bitterness, in just perfectly small amounts. This maybe seems a bit excessive and over the top, but it sure isn't. I'm sort of filled with awe, and quite a bit of jealousy. I wish I had a full bottle of this one. Last time I had a Laphroaig as good as this one was when I enjoyed a Port cask finished Laphroaig bottled for the German whisky shop Bar und Cigar. And I gave that one a 10'er and swore I'd never to have such a good Laphroaig ever again.

But guess what: 10!


Laphroaig 7yo 1999-2007 59.3% Signatory Vintage cask#2/6/993 btl.209/612

Another one from bourbon wood, no hogsheads mentioned in this cask mix though. I might be a bit mistaken here as there is a chance I have published taste notes on this one before, but that is a chance I'm willing to take. I believe I gave it an 8'er. But when had right after the 20 years older golden bottling from the 80's, it's gonna be hard to climb those stairs again. White wine color, The smell is peppery and peaty, a bit simple so far. I can detect the alcohol from the other side of the room. The taste is sweet, thick and punchy, syrup, honey, vanilla, and lots of peat. Some herbs as well, hard to tell which, oregano or basel is in there. When the 1980 was a manifest to what can happen if sherry wood and peated whisky is mixed for long enough, this shows what a short while on bourbon wood can bring to a smoky spirit. Amazing how much is going on here in such a simple way. Banana, honey and vanilla, all sweet and enticing, then a peat blast, which leads to a salty aftertaste with a hints of sour fruits.

I'm gonna reward this again, but a small step up on the ladder this time: 8.5



Next tasting: Clynelish Distillery

4 Highland Parks, due to some irregularities..

I found out that I'm receiving a couple samples of Clynelish that I want to incorporate in a tasting of older glories from the distillery. So instead, I do this tasting with an old acquaintance, the Highland Park distillery. Four whiskies that I have little or no idea what to expect from, hopefully there will be some old peaty HP in here with lots of honey?


Highland Park 8yo 40% Gordon & Macphail

One of those flat miniature bottles that G&M used to release in both 40% and 57%abv versions. Probably from the 80's, cream color and lots of gold on the label. Golden brown color, lots of E150, or some sherry casks involved in the vatting? Smells wonderfully sweet, lots of honey, seems much richer than a young and diluted whisky should. Also some herbs, minerals and peat. Salt and baking allspice is here. Toffee and whipped cream. Sweet, yet spicy and peaty, very flavorsome, almost too perfect so far, lacks bitterness (just a small hint is needed sometimes). The taste is sweet, too sweet, small hints of peat, lots of caramel and burnt sugar. This is just a tad too predictable on the palate. No aftertaste in this one.

Smooth as silk but lacks edge, like Jennifer Lopez: 5


Highland Park 13yo 40% The Whisky Connoisseur btl.5/206 Porsche 997 Commemoration

A green bottle, looks really old, but I can't find much information, A funny botlle with a photo of a Porsche 997 on the label and the headline "Art of the Sports Car". A pale one, white wine color, probably a bourbon cask? I have no idea when this was bottled. It smells pine wood, ginger, turnip, red paprika, white rum, licorice, grassiness, dried grass. The taste is sweet, almond oil, lavendel, soft floral, interestingly sweet. Sort of a rosé water sweetness, very modest and light. But it's interesting. The lack of any spirity notes let's all these nice summer notes forward, and it makes for a nice aperitif, but in the long run it's a bit too weak.

Another one that needs an edge, or spark if you like: 4


Highland Park 16yo 1989-2005 46% Cask & Thistle Collection

Another one from an IB-series that I do not know much about. In that respect, this quite a fun tasting, but I wouldn't say HP has hit the strive so far tonight. Maybe this one will make it a bit more fun. Smells sweet, mint drops, aspic gel, hazelnuts, almonds, roasted carrots, another one with this modest sweetness, but much fuller this time, sort of buttery and creamy as well. The taste is bittersweet, like orange zest. And that's about it, needs some water perhaps? With additional water it becomes much more flavorsome, caramel and apple cider, roasted shalots and dried dates. A very pleasant surprise, the best one so far in this session.

A good thing some flavors don't run on accord with everything else in here: 6


Highland Park 12yo 40% OB 2010

I haven't tried the standard since the 2008 version, time to change that. New packaging, and from what I can tell, a bit lighter in color than the older versions. Maybe a little less sherry in the mix? Smells old style oloroso sherry and dry oak. Best nose so far. There's some peat in here as well, and lots of caramel and honey. A sweet surprise. The taste is rather lighter than what I recall it to be. Some light sherried notes, banana, cinnamon, grassiness, fried wheat batter and nutmeg. The palate is a bit of a letdown after the initially ever so gently peated nose. This brings a theory I once heard pronounced at a bar a few years back to mind. In english it'd be something like this "When nosing a whisky that consists of both sherry and bourbon oak, the sherry will be superior on nose and the bourbon will leave you devastated on the palate." I'm no sherry-freak, but I'd like there to be a bit more on the palate, and I miss some of the vanilla and pepper from the bourbon wood. And the peat seems to be all vanished now.

Personally I think this is a step or some down for HP12: 4



Next Distillery: Laphroaig Distillery (I'm so looking forward to this!!!)

4 Ardbegs that's not reserved by any committees, the way I like it

I have never been and probably never will be a member of any whisky committee or proud owner of one square Islay turf, or any other of that sort. But I will be a proud owner of a bottle at any time if possible. I'm not too big a fan of the sort of extravagant marketing and pr-stunts some of the distilleries puts out nowadays, but Ardbeg seems to have created a lot of fuzz with theirs. Alligators and Rollercoasters and all that jazz flying of the shelves. I'll have four bottlings that were available on the "free" market, although the Supernova was reserved by the committee back in 2009, I got one that was fair game back in 2010. What I'm trying to say is that while I do fancy myself an Ardbeg every so often, I'm not sure I'm such a fan of the way they are sometimes getting a lot of attention as a cause of many limited editions. Those editions often carries much good casks that the standard vattings then are depraved of. I guess one of many counterparts for this could be Glencadam, which I think is brilliantly excellent (...I know) at all standard bottlings, both 10 and 15. Anyway, I'm way off the topic now, let's have these Ardbegs and hope they proves there's quality to back up all the buzz.


Ardbeg 17yo 40% OB

I think this bottling at 17yo has been discontinued. I understand as much older casks must've been used in it, and remember, the distillery were both dead and limp during 1981-1997. So chance some of this whisky has been distilled prior to the 1980's are good. Golden honey color, smells peaty and burnt. Coastal, salty, burnt juniper bushes, smoked wood, cedar wood, cigars, very nice. The taste has this plastic iodine, synthetic and burning on the tongue, followed by lots of dried herbs and peat. Powerful peaty stuff. This could be any young diluted standard Islayer, like 12yo Caol Ila or Bruichladdich 10yo, but most of all maybe the 12yo Bowmore. I must say I'm a bit disappointed. If I were in a committee and had this as an exclusive, well..

A tame one, give me a Laphroaig urgently!: 4


Ardbeg 11yo 1993-2005 43% Gordon & Macphail Connoisseurs Choice

This one was produced during the distillery's downtime, and was charged in first fill sherry casks for 11 years. A young vibrant sherry infused peat monster? About the same color as the 17yo. Smells more on the bitter side, fino-matured? Peatier too. The taste is lightly peaty with some milky character, fresh milk and buttered crackers. Some fino bitterness and sour fruits also. Most of all it has no Islay character, and is, to be frank, a bit on the bland side. The aftertaste is light, and adding water doesn't help much, some butter and grapefruit.

Disappointed I was: 3.5


Ardbeg 22yo 1974-1996 40% Gordon & Macphail Connoisseurs Choice

Twice the maturation period of the 1993'. And all this whisky were distilled way prior to 1981, so I'm expecting a bit of a different character. Will be fun to try right before the quite recent 2010 Supernova, coming right up after this. Orange hue. It smells burnt, peach tea, peat, dusty shed, yeast, fertilizer, although this might not sound too enticing, it acts pleasantly altogether. Old style. I wish they'd have this one at cask strength, but I guess there's just so so many 1974 Ardbegs left, and that most of them are ridiculously expensive by now. Word has it that its one of, if not the best vintage of Ardbegs still around. The taste is perfectly sweet, marzipan, eucalyptus, peppermint, coriander, honey, blue cheese, cinnamon, cloves and turmeric. Not as peaty as I reckon newer versions, but makes up for that and a lot more with amazing palate and a rather minty and drying aftertaste.

A special one: 8.5


Ardbeg Supernova NAS 60.1% OB 2010

As earlier mentioned, the 2009 version of this one were a committee reserve bottling, one reserved for members of the Ardbeg Committee only. I'm all for committees and I am a member of one myself, one at my local brewery, and I think that supporting local brands and producers are money well spent. Ardbeg has taken it a bit to far if you ask me, with this worldwide committee for a worldwide known brand. But that doesn't mean they don't make good whisky, and I think this one could be just that. I believe Supernova was the peatiest (highest level of peat aka ppm) when it was first released. A young peat-bomb then. It smells all on sweet vanilla and alcohol, some peat as well, bourbon wood? Definitively a young one. The taste is drying and sweet, like sugar syrup sweetness, needs water, if not this is going to make me sick. So extremely sweet. A small drop of water makes it go into a more relaxed state, vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, light peatiness and some essential notes, like fabricated cotton or mineral soap.

Way too light and sweet, doesn't evolve enough given time, or water: 3.5



Next tasting: Clynelish Distillery

5 more Benriachs, all but one bottled in 2011

Yesterdays very positive small tasting of two Benriachs called for more, 4 more from specific cask types, and one young but old one from G&M.


Benriach 12yo 1969-1981 40% Gordon & Macphail Connoisseurs Choice

I've only had one Benriach distilled in the 60's before, that was a 34yo from Hart Brothers, this one has only been matured for 12 years so hopefully this will show a bit more of what the spirit could've been like back then. Smells peaty and floral, butter, grassy, cress, lillies, a bit like being in a warm greenhouse. The peat is what mostly stands out in this one so far. The taste is perfectly smooth, light peatiness, buttery, some herbal notes, raw basil and the bitterness found when chewing some agricultures. Vanilla and more butter, this is not oily, not at all, more like salty farm butter. The aftertaste is rather short but the peat puts in a last effort and it follows up an altogether nice and balanced malt.

If you want to enjoy simple pleasures, then this one is ideal: 6


Benriach 22yo 1989-2011 49.1% OB HH#4813

Also one of these finished whiskies disguised as a single cask. A sauternes finish. Right now, the only "sauterned" whisky that I think I've enjoyed must be the Glenmorangie Nectar D'Or, but that could change. Very light in color, and see the fairly low %abv. I hope it still holds some edge. Smells very sweet, reminds me of the Nectar D'Or, melon, green grapes, pineapple, strawberries, vanilla ice cream, a summer malt indeed. Now, after a while it turns more spirity on the nose, the initial freshness dies a bit. The taste is all the fruits from the nose, but less fresh, I'm thinking of stale fruit juice, off-season fruits, sweet yet a bit revolting, many people refer to this as baby-vomit. I have never had a baby or even baby vomit so I guess I couldn't refer to it. After the fresh and vibrating nose, this was a disastrous ending.

Nectar D'Or, you're still on top: 4


Benriach 18yo 1993-2011 56.1% OB HH#7415

Finished in a Gaja Barolo hoggie. I have not much experience with Gaja Barolo, but I tried a young Longrow from a Gaja Barolo cask a couple years ago, and it was maybe the worst Longrow I've had so far. This one might change my perception of Gaja Barolo? Dark brown/red color. Smells light, not much going on here, some peppemint and licorice, red jelly, washing powder, very strange. The taste has again this amazing licorice flavor, like licorice and peat, mighty stuff. I think this is the most extreme Benriach I've ever had. Licorice, sherry, peat and a longlasting aftertaste of bitter licorice, almost like a Jever or Fernet, but in a good way:). Gaja Barolo, you've redeemed yourself.

This one is extreme in every sense of the word, and so diverse: 8.5


Benriach 34yo 1976-2011 57.8% OB cask#6942

A sherry butt, my first Benriach distilled in the 70's. Nevertheless, I hope it carries a bit more character than last 34yo I tried from Benriach which was distilled in 1969. I'm impressed by the high volume of alcohol, it seems that some sherry casks keeps the alcohol at a good level for many years, and some even seems to increase it. Smells of honey, cinnamon, malt syrup, sun-dried tomatoes, brown sugar, green chillies, lots of sherry influence yet no phenols or bitterness. A sweet treat? The taste is that of strong cinnamon, green bell peppers, lime rind, kindergarden glue, crisps, not nearly as sweet as the nose suggested, more sort of like a half-rancid guacamole in style. This needs water i suppose. A small addition of water proves it to be one of the phenolic bombs after all. Phenols, leather and chestnuts.

Starts of good, then turns a more ugly, one for sherry-freaks: 4.5


Benriach 26yo 1984-2011 54.3% OB HH#7193

My vintage, that must be good.. The label says "Peated Virgin Oak Finish", what does that mean? Is it a feated whisky finished in a virgin oak cask? Or is it a whisky finished in a peated cask? Peated cask? Remember the Glenfiddich Chaoran Reserve anyone? That was 12yo Glenfiddich matured in a cask that previously held peated whisky from Islay. So a peated cask it was called. Anyway, the proof is in the pudding so let's taste, shall we? Peat and sherry, my favorite mix alongside peat and port, I love the nose on this one. coastal aromas, sea salt, dried fish, mussels boiled in white wine, lobster boiled in salt water (you know the smell that it lets out in you kitchen, amazing stuff!). The taste is again this lcorice and peat that I found in the GB finish. But here's some sweetness as well, like sweet licorice and eucalyptus. Kind of minty, but not mint, not sweet enough. Dried sage, and lots of it, very good, earthy notes as well. Sort of shy peatiness, if any, makes me think that the Peated cask finish maybe what this is?

I'm glad the peat didn't dominate this too much after all: 7



Next tasting: Ardbeg Distillery

2 Benriach's for tonight, just for fun

I will only have two Benriach's tonight as it is getting late, and I feel that lately there's been some huge sessions, involving perhaps a whisky or two too many. The palate gets worn out if tasting too many flavors over a shorter period of time, and recongnizing each and every one without confusing any of 'em with one another gets trickier. Here we go.


Benriach 22yo 1989-2011 50.6% OB HH#5620

A first fill finish, or "virgin oak finish" as the label reads. So I guess it's spent most of its life in refill wood then? Please, don't think this is a single cask just because it has a reference number, as the reference number is just to the cask it's been in prior to the finishing. Maybe three months, maybe three years, it doesn't say. Kinda dark and bronze-like for a refill and virgin wood matured whisky, maybe some sherry refill were used prior to the finishing? Smells peaty, vanilla, phenols, fabric softener, licorice, old warehouse.. I'm leaning towards the theory of whisky from refill sherry cask(s) finished in virgin oak. But it smells good. The taste is a bit austere, with some honey, vanilla, strawberry jam, pickles, goat cheese, cantaloupe(!). This sweet and a bit rustic flavor on the palate is very light and refreshing, but soon ended by the finishing notes of black peppers and phenols.

Could've been a winner, but the finish lets it down...: 7


Benriach 19yo 1992-2011 55.6% OB HH#972

Another one that has been finished in a hogshead, which is a smaller cask, and therefore makes an impact on the whisky in lesser time than bigger casks. This HH#972 is a Tawny Port Hogshead, and I like my whiskies when finished in Port casks, especially Laphroaigs. Dark red-ish color, smells of dry port, lemon rind, sour grapes, peat, tannins, acidic, cigar smoke, humidor, pleasant stuff. The taste is thick and sweet, dark syrup, cherries, junipers, dark chocolate and kobe beef. But most of all its these extreme hints of dark red and blue berries that steals the show. The aftertaste is way longer than the one from the virgin oak, an it's dominated by peat and dark berries.

This is a very good version, maybe my all time favorite Benriach so far: 8.5



Next tasting: Benriach Distillery (again...)