Yesterdays very positive small tasting of two Benriachs called for more, 4 more from specific cask types, and one young but old one from G&M.
Benriach 12yo 1969-1981 40% Gordon & Macphail Connoisseurs Choice
I've only had one Benriach distilled in the 60's before, that was a 34yo from Hart Brothers, this one has only been matured for 12 years so hopefully this will show a bit more of what the spirit could've been like back then. Smells peaty and floral, butter, grassy, cress, lillies, a bit like being in a warm greenhouse. The peat is what mostly stands out in this one so far. The taste is perfectly smooth, light peatiness, buttery, some herbal notes, raw basil and the bitterness found when chewing some agricultures. Vanilla and more butter, this is not oily, not at all, more like salty farm butter. The aftertaste is rather short but the peat puts in a last effort and it follows up an altogether nice and balanced malt.
If you want to enjoy simple pleasures, then this one is ideal: 6
Benriach 22yo 1989-2011 49.1% OB HH#4813
Also one of these finished whiskies disguised as a single cask. A sauternes finish. Right now, the only "sauterned" whisky that I think I've enjoyed must be the Glenmorangie Nectar D'Or, but that could change. Very light in color, and see the fairly low %abv. I hope it still holds some edge. Smells very sweet, reminds me of the Nectar D'Or, melon, green grapes, pineapple, strawberries, vanilla ice cream, a summer malt indeed. Now, after a while it turns more spirity on the nose, the initial freshness dies a bit. The taste is all the fruits from the nose, but less fresh, I'm thinking of stale fruit juice, off-season fruits, sweet yet a bit revolting, many people refer to this as baby-vomit. I have never had a baby or even baby vomit so I guess I couldn't refer to it. After the fresh and vibrating nose, this was a disastrous ending.
Nectar D'Or, you're still on top: 4
Benriach 18yo 1993-2011 56.1% OB HH#7415
Finished in a Gaja Barolo hoggie. I have not much experience with Gaja Barolo, but I tried a young Longrow from a Gaja Barolo cask a couple years ago, and it was maybe the worst Longrow I've had so far. This one might change my perception of Gaja Barolo? Dark brown/red color. Smells light, not much going on here, some peppemint and licorice, red jelly, washing powder, very strange. The taste has again this amazing licorice flavor, like licorice and peat, mighty stuff. I think this is the most extreme Benriach I've ever had. Licorice, sherry, peat and a longlasting aftertaste of bitter licorice, almost like a Jever or Fernet, but in a good way:). Gaja Barolo, you've redeemed yourself.
This one is extreme in every sense of the word, and so diverse: 8.5
Benriach 34yo 1976-2011 57.8% OB cask#6942
A sherry butt, my first Benriach distilled in the 70's. Nevertheless, I hope it carries a bit more character than last 34yo I tried from Benriach which was distilled in 1969. I'm impressed by the high volume of alcohol, it seems that some sherry casks keeps the alcohol at a good level for many years, and some even seems to increase it. Smells of honey, cinnamon, malt syrup, sun-dried tomatoes, brown sugar, green chillies, lots of sherry influence yet no phenols or bitterness. A sweet treat? The taste is that of strong cinnamon, green bell peppers, lime rind, kindergarden glue, crisps, not nearly as sweet as the nose suggested, more sort of like a half-rancid guacamole in style. This needs water i suppose. A small addition of water proves it to be one of the phenolic bombs after all. Phenols, leather and chestnuts.
Starts of good, then turns a more ugly, one for sherry-freaks: 4.5
Benriach 26yo 1984-2011 54.3% OB HH#7193
My vintage, that must be good.. The label says "Peated Virgin Oak Finish", what does that mean? Is it a feated whisky finished in a virgin oak cask? Or is it a whisky finished in a peated cask? Peated cask? Remember the Glenfiddich Chaoran Reserve anyone? That was 12yo Glenfiddich matured in a cask that previously held peated whisky from Islay. So a peated cask it was called. Anyway, the proof is in the pudding so let's taste, shall we? Peat and sherry, my favorite mix alongside peat and port, I love the nose on this one. coastal aromas, sea salt, dried fish, mussels boiled in white wine, lobster boiled in salt water (you know the smell that it lets out in you kitchen, amazing stuff!). The taste is again this lcorice and peat that I found in the GB finish. But here's some sweetness as well, like sweet licorice and eucalyptus. Kind of minty, but not mint, not sweet enough. Dried sage, and lots of it, very good, earthy notes as well. Sort of shy peatiness, if any, makes me think that the Peated cask finish maybe what this is?
I'm glad the peat didn't dominate this too much after all: 7
Next tasting: Ardbeg Distillery
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