I have to admit that if I weren't to fall in love with Fettercairn so shortly after starting drinking scotch, I would definitively be an eager Laphroaig enthusiast by now. But seeing the price range of some of the older stuff from Laphroaig I guess it's all for the better. After a couple of pretty mediocre tastings lately I think this one could be the highlight so far in December. Btw. Earlier today I watched the christmas animation movie "Polar Express". If you want to be in good spirit this christmas, please don't do the same. Anyway, I hope in this tasting there maybe will be a whisky or two that saves christmas.
Laphroaig NAS 48% OB Quarter Cask
Just to prepare my tastebuds for this peat-enhanced session I'll start with an old classic, the Quarter cask. This has only been finished in Quarter casks. But since they are such small cask their impact on the whiskies evolves much faster. A bit darker color on this one than what I recall. Smells spirity, with a huge oak impact, and some resinous and phenols, could a bigger part of this come from sherry wood? Smells very drying, like burnt pine wood, or toasted mushrooms. The taste is sweet, vanilla-liqueur and lots of oak and a peaty aftertaste. I'm not too fond of this expression, I think it's too oaky. That's about it, one I'll forget very soon.
Laphroaig should be sold at cask strength! IMO: 3
Laphroaig 17yo 1993-2010 48.2% Old Malt Cask Douglas Laing cask#6630
From a refill hoggie. Usually the bottlings of this series are bottled at 50%abv. Which usually means they've been watered down a bit. But if you want the cask strengths from this series, do buy the ones below 50%abv, like this one. Although they usually have slipped below 50% due to a not so tight cask, at least it's not been added water past production date. White wine color, smells huge on the sweetness, honey, banana, caramel, marzipan, stirred coconut milk, lemon fudge, sweet all over the place with a small hint of something citric. Much bigger than the QC, and I like it. The taste is more burnt, tarry, smoky, not as peaty as the QC, more coastal with hints of seaweed and waves of sea salt, a very salty flavor. A restrained bitterness of unripe pomegranate and bitter plums. Although an interesting challenge on the palate, and one that will start the talk around the table, this one is perhaps not Islay-ish enough if u know what I mean.
As if there were fino-casks involved: 4.5
Laphroaig 12yo 1998-2011 54.9% First Cask Jean Boyer cask#700283
Seems that both Laphroaig itself and the IB's loves the use of hogsheads when it comes to which casks to use. This one comes from a fresh bourbon hogshead. I have a passion for young cask strength Laphroaigs, usually around the age of ten and around 60%abv. This one is not that strong, but maybe the mould, or angels if you like, takes a bigger share of alcohol from smaller casks? Will this be the first peat-monster in this session? Peat, strawberry, vanilla and tar on the nose, the perfect mix of coastal Islay and a good cask. The taste is peaty, a bit perfumy (not in a bad way), tarry, bonfire, roasted wood, fresh lime juice and again these nice and sweet strawberry notes. Very good Laphroaig.
One that leaps high on the taste scale compared to whatever else: 8.5
Laphroaig 27yo 1980-2007 57.4% OB Vintage
A dark sherry-matured sample bottle that I won by making a semi-critical statement of the range of whiskies available at the Norwegian Wine Monopoly in comparison to the rather excellent selection there is to be found in the swedish Systembolaget, on a Norwegian whisky forum. Many thanks Arve! And this must be the darkest Laphroaig I have ever come across, maybe the oldest as well. This is a pleasantly daunting experience somehow. The nose is huge, phenolic, raisins, prunes, honey, spicy cinnamon, dark chocolate, heavy sweet oloroso sherry, dark syrup, fried cod liver, sun-dried tomatoes, bonfire, juniper, roasted nuts, this one just goes on and on. One of the best nosings I've ever had. The taste is so heavy, thick dark syrup, lots of sweet oloroso elements, again this spicy cinnamon and just before it's all starting to go a bit too much fruitcake, the peat hits me, not in an excessive way like with many of the powerful youngsters I like so much. But in a smooth, really relaxed and comfortable way, like the flavors that are left after you've just had a good puff from a good cuban. The aftertaste is peaty, again a bit fruity, dark fruits of the forest and dark grape seeds bitterness, in just perfectly small amounts. This maybe seems a bit excessive and over the top, but it sure isn't. I'm sort of filled with awe, and quite a bit of jealousy. I wish I had a full bottle of this one. Last time I had a Laphroaig as good as this one was when I enjoyed a Port cask finished Laphroaig bottled for the German whisky shop Bar und Cigar. And I gave that one a 10'er and swore I'd never to have such a good Laphroaig ever again.
But guess what: 10!
Laphroaig 7yo 1999-2007 59.3% Signatory Vintage cask#2/6/993 btl.209/612
Another one from bourbon wood, no hogsheads mentioned in this cask mix though. I might be a bit mistaken here as there is a chance I have published taste notes on this one before, but that is a chance I'm willing to take. I believe I gave it an 8'er. But when had right after the 20 years older golden bottling from the 80's, it's gonna be hard to climb those stairs again. White wine color, The smell is peppery and peaty, a bit simple so far. I can detect the alcohol from the other side of the room. The taste is sweet, thick and punchy, syrup, honey, vanilla, and lots of peat. Some herbs as well, hard to tell which, oregano or basel is in there. When the 1980 was a manifest to what can happen if sherry wood and peated whisky is mixed for long enough, this shows what a short while on bourbon wood can bring to a smoky spirit. Amazing how much is going on here in such a simple way. Banana, honey and vanilla, all sweet and enticing, then a peat blast, which leads to a salty aftertaste with a hints of sour fruits.
I'm gonna reward this again, but a small step up on the ladder this time: 8.5
Next tasting: Clynelish Distillery
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