torsdag 12. januar 2012

Another go at Port Ellen, 5 this time

I had a Port Ellen vertical not that long ago, and then it was, like now, a majority of Signatory bottlings, and I was a bit disappointed then. This time around the bottlings are both older and higher in alcohol strength. Except for one sinner that I've decided to give another shot at redemption as I think there might have been some flaws with the container last time I had it.


Port Ellen 26yo 43% Signatory Vintage

I had this one in last PE tasting as well, but from another decanter that time, and it was rubbish. Tasted like some stale tea, if such a thing exists. Tame and nauseating. I hope that this one can prove my suggestions of a whisky ruined by exterior circumstances to be true. Okay, this is pretty devastating, it says on the label that the container, which is a ceramic decanter, contains 5cl, yet the content is approximately 3cl. The smell is light, grass and apple juice. The taste is Light like 20% vanilla liqueur, subtract the vanilla.

No nay never no more: 1


Port Ellen 26yo 1982-2009 50% Old Malt Cask Douglas Laing cask#5398

Actually, I wasn't going to try this one today, but it came on as a substitute due to the 26yo S/V hitting the toilet even before dramming reached one fifth of content. Light in color, smells of sea salt, brine, licorice, peat, oaky, engine oil, gasoline, reminds me somehow of very young Laphroaig (not a bad thing though). The taste is peppery, peaty, coastal with brine, sea salt, smoked oysters, burnt juniper and leather. Very nice. The aftertaste is red onions, leather, licorice, balsamic vinegar and cloves. A weird, but very good Port Ellen. If the distillery weren't shut down I can never imagine this one being bottled at this age by an indie. But again, it's fun to try a Port Ellen that's so "different".

Not for PE nostalgias, but a wonderful malt it is: 7


Port Ellen 28yo 1982-2010 53% The Nectar of The Daily Dram

I have been looking forward to this one, with all the CS Port Ellens roaming around at the end of last decade and forth, I've heard that many superb bottlings were released from german and belgian bottlers. Let's see. Smells more withdrawn than the OMC, maybe it needs a small drop of water? I'll give it a rest. A few minutes later it has started opening up on light honey, butter biscuits, sage, salty butter, green paprika and mild peat. The taste is sweet and light, vanilla and grassiness, not what I was expecting, I think it needs some water. With about 1 1/2 teaspoon added water, to be precise, it turns fresher, more floral, more spirity and that cream crackers/butter biscuit notes comes to show. I must admit I'm a bit disappointed with this one.

Light, easy, little to no peaty notes, I was expecting a bit more: 3.5


Port Ellen 27yo 1983-2010 55.7% Signatory Vintage

This one from Signatory should be a bit better. What I like about Signatory's cask series is that it seems such a safe bet. Not always outstanding, but almost never a disappointment. Same light golden color as the other three. Smells much bigger, salty, briny, salted cod liver, smoked salmon, dried seaweed, reminds me of summer fishing along the coast of Norway in my childhood. Ah, the memories... But back to the tasting. The flavors are rather explosive, lots of peat and black pike caviar, salty and bittersweet. It sure has a lot more balls than the prior tow, or three for that matter. the aftertaste is burnt and phenolic.

More Islay character in this one, a rugged one: 7


Port Ellen 27yo 1983-2010 59% Signatory Vintage cask#517

Impressive strength after 27 years on wood. I like my whiskies potent. And the stronger, the better often, as it allows me to play more with water and such. The nose reminds me of sweet marzipan and peaty smokiness, rather simple yet very bold. The taste is jalapenos, peat smoke, red paprika, honey, waxy, dark chocolate, orange peel and bonfire. This is one of those that simply doesn't need additional water. I know there is a chance even the most perfect bare whiskies will improve by adding water, but if it's standing so well on it's own I most often find water to decrease instead of increase quality. The aftertaste is extremely rustic, like peppery chorizo and smoked ham, reminds me of some italian meat delicacy shops I've been to when on holiday. Also lots of fresh herbs, basil, chives, tarragon and rosemary. The finest one in this session by far, but also the most complex.

This one is amazingly rustic, quality on all parts: 8.5



Next distillery: Bruichladdich Distillery

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